back to nutty tubing experiments...

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bloke
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back to nutty tubing experiments...

Post by bloke »

It's not as if I haven't messed with stuff like this before...and there's been some discussion (but little empathy of experiences, as - likely - very few others have done nutty stuff like this and - the few who can probably (well...) don't mess with it, as it's (again) nutty...

...but I hooked up my salvage parts (which greatly resemble some c. 1920 low-pitch/high-pitch alternatives loop-the-loop rig) on FatBastard again - dropping it to an A♮ tuba.

I only played through one excerpt (no contest sonatas nor concerti :laugh: ) a few times.
It was "Ride" (which I probably haven't visited in at least a year).

This alteration delivers C-major (B-flat tuba) button-mashing or (for you C peeps) D-major button-mashing.

Obviously the circuit lengths (normal positions) are set for B-flat, but (without repositioning all the slides) I found that I could use fourth valve for B-natural (rather than my customary - B-flat tuba - 1&3 for C) and using 4th valve (which is normally pulled a bit to favor 2&4 for B-natural) added enough length to give me an in-tune (4th valve alone) B-natural.

It's a pretty nice instrument for that excerpt, and BETTER THAN (at least in my experience, and with this instrument with its tuning characteristics) than when I lengthened my formerly-owned C instrument (lowering it to a B-natural instrument) to blow this same excerpt in the "open/home" key.

As far as non-screwed-with instruments, the last two times I played "Ride" in a performance, it played it on the C and - the subsequent time - on this B-flat...it's easier (and easier to play in-tune) on this B-flat instrument...and (ok...) possibly even easier to play in tune on the A-natural version of this instrument.

The low E (4th valve alone - which responds well with this instrument which is the size of a Holton 345, except with an .835" bore) - is a great "cheat" on A-tuba, as well, and speeds up the response of that 16th note pitch as well (allowing it to be heard - with less work - with more clarity, at least when I'm playing it)...

...so what does this have with you - who are (surely, by now) rolling your eyes?

Maybe you don't have chunks of leftover tubing or little tight-turn 21.2mm bows laying around...but (otherwise) maybe - generally - "Think (and do) outside the box" simply to see what happens.

It's not even soldered together (and - were it a permanent accessory - the ends don't even hit simultaneously)...just crap pulled out of a box.

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bloke
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Re: back to nutty tubing experiments...

Post by bloke »

yeah...That excerpt is considerably easier on A-tuba compared to B-flat tuba (or C tuba).

Here are a couple of pics.

These are 21.2mm extra-tight bows (tighter than #2 circuit) removed from an oem 5th slide assembly.
I was going to give them to Wade, but both sport a bit of red-rot. (They don't cost much...and I'm going to order soon, Wade (only), if you would like anything and only play Priority Box postage from TN to MS...??)

If I build a "real" one, it will probably be regular-width #2 slide bows (same bore, obviously) and - hopefully - with both ends of the main slide "hitting" at the same time.

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LEGITIMATE excuse for the bad tone quality:
Mrs. bloke was resting, so I had to hold the tuba sideways with one hand and hold the phone with the other; I couldn't get my mouth straight onto the mouthpiece...so that's my story, and I'm sticking with it !!! :bugeyes:

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