um if this is a good tuba? A Symphonie? Then I’d leave it alone. It’s a classic horn and it’s not worth fudging it up. Buy a smaller tuba that fits, or a cheeper one to operate on. And if you’re really set on doing this then buy another bell to do the operation on. That way you can at least have the ...

The MSP1S with normal valves (0.748-inch bore and a 26-inch bell). https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/AMMSP1S--adams-msp1s-sousaphone-silver-plated-with-case It looks the same as their MSP1TS https://reverb.com/item/72825012-adams-msp1ts-marching-sousaphone-silver-plated-with-case With abnormal ...

There were a couple of versions of this horn. Originally with slanted valves, they later lined them up in the vertical set-up like both you gentlemen have. Tubajug's model is the only type I've seen pictures of in the vertical set-up. The way Don's 5th is set-up is new to me. I'm no expert. I just ...

I'd go for unscented lamp oil. Mix it with a heavier oil if that's what your valves need.
Valve oil and lamp oil are the same: it's all paraffine.

I can't remember playing a brass sousaphone which didn't ring. 24" bells ring less. When playing with others I almost never notice it enough to be distracted. It comes with the gig, as it were. When practicing I put two padded plastic spring clamps on the bell. I never thought about using lead tape ...

Sorry, I couldn't resist and looked up the trailer.
At 0.45" you can see the Del Negro in action.
Sort of.

I think the real and only issue is; Which one plays better? Is more in tune? Is easier to play? Have less leakage at the valves? One thing to keep in mind; a much older Conn (than 1946) is quite probably in high or low tuning. With high tuning you can pull the slides to 440=A. If it still plays ...

Sorry
Humor’s not my forte.
Co- as in “joint” or “alongside”
An extra finger.
Oh well.

Charles Coffinger
Co-finger
That's it: Charles had six fingers!!!

Consider that downsizing might mean downgrading. I moved from a 496 to a 497 because the instrument played better. Probably has to do with their being more handmade parts on the 497 plus a lot more attention to detail. It's a higher end tuba in all aspects. The better the tuba, the easier it is to ...

It's all a question of what you (think you) want. I prefer to pull NO slides and have tuba's that come close to this requirement. Fortunately I have work/gigs Unfortunately way too many on sousaphone. I have a fantastic 50's Martin medium with recently revised valves and awesomely lined slides ...

Makes playing 2p C & B a lot easier

I'm curious,
after all the work you put into it, why didn't you make the first valve slide tuneable with the left hand?

I think I learned this one from Tommy Johnson. He felt that it was also a great exercise for finding the center of every note. The variation I play has to do with my practice routine in general= a note a day. Today I did many exercises in D or starting from D. Tomorrow it'll be Eb. So many exercises ...

Interesting point. Is it then logical to ask if the King tuba also makes a radical expansion after the valve block? Or is this an apple-orange question?The ratio bore-to-bell expansion obviously works in this size.

Yes, and now for even more "I have no idea" observations. So many things to consider, like that tuba builders now have much more high tech at their disposal but master craftsmanship is thinning out. I used to own a Martin Mammoth sousaphone. The F was very sharp. I own a Martin Medium sousaphone ...

Reminds me a bit like what Kanstul was doing with their CR valve.

Part of a New Year’s resolution?

On my 497 I've been using either the Imperial+profundo or the symphony. Regardless I've noticed that music I previously might have chosen to play on a smaller tuba I've now been doing on the 497. Obviously I'm doing this because I like it. It's easier. Intonation wise but also response. Probably ...

Haha! Absolutely brilliant. All the energy and money to make a composition with the chorus "Sliding Tuba, tuba polka". What a sense of humor.