.
Forum rules
This section is for posts that are directly related to performance, performers, or equipment. Social issues are allowed, as long as they are directly related to those categories. If you see a post that you cannot respond to with respect and courtesy, we ask that you do not respond at all.
This section is for posts that are directly related to performance, performers, or equipment. Social issues are allowed, as long as they are directly related to those categories. If you see a post that you cannot respond to with respect and courtesy, we ask that you do not respond at all.
-
York-aholic
- Posts: 1870
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 10:39 pm
- Location: SoCal
- Has thanked: 2422 times
- Been thanked: 710 times
Re: What are these 2 items out of a 2341?
If the inner slide legs on the removable slide are shorter than the outer slide tubes (the tubes that stay attached to the tuba), manufacturers will put in spacers like what you pictured, to make up the difference. The idea is to keep the inside bore consistent.
If the things that came out are the same inner and outer diameter as the end of your slide, that’s what they are. You can put them back in and use the 2nd valve slide to push them back in. I’d image it’s one per side but holding your slide up next to the outer tubing should confirm/deny that there’s enough length for a bore spacer per side.
These are fairly typical on 1st or 3rd valve tubing. I haven’t run into them on 2nd valve tubing but…
They aren’t structural.Your horn won’t fall apart, but there are to keep the bore consistent.
If the things that came out are the same inner and outer diameter as the end of your slide, that’s what they are. You can put them back in and use the 2nd valve slide to push them back in. I’d image it’s one per side but holding your slide up next to the outer tubing should confirm/deny that there’s enough length for a bore spacer per side.
These are fairly typical on 1st or 3rd valve tubing. I haven’t run into them on 2nd valve tubing but…
They aren’t structural.Your horn won’t fall apart, but there are to keep the bore consistent.
- These users thanked the author York-aholic for the post (total 2):
- MN_TimTuba (Sun May 17, 2026 8:06 am) • thedancingsousa (Mon May 18, 2026 12:43 pm)
Some old Yorks, Martins, and perhaps a King rotary valved CC
-
bloke
- Mid South Music
- Posts: 24875
- Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2020 8:55 am
- Location: western Tennessee - near Memphis
- Has thanked: 5274 times
- Been thanked: 6035 times
Re: What are these 2 items out of a 2341?
One of the things I tend to do here (which some surely dislike) is changing some micro-subjects to larger subjects (rarely smaller subjects - such as what maker of aftermarket pickups novices should put on their $130 pawn shop Chinese bass guitars with so-so necks, but whatever).
Broadening this topic,
The green that you see is copper verdigris mixed with hard scale. Hard scale is the real nemesis of brass instruments, and not so much loose dirt and scum (which certainly affect playing characteristics, but not the permanent welfare of the instrument).
Bathtub baths with Dawn detergent do not remove any hard scale, though they usually remove some of the dirt and scum (but often not in the knuckles between the valve casings - where the problematic dirt and scum - that which causes intermittent valve sticking, along with it being caused by hard scale deposits - actually hides).
Removing hard scale deposits safely (dissolving it);requires something safe, something acidic (not alkaline).
Personally, I don't view ultrasonic cleaning is particularly safe (though the equipment certainly is pricy - about the cost of a darn nice European made tuba), particularly if any dezinctfication has already occurred (as ultrasound has been known to blow holes in those weak spots).
My personal solution (to avoid the need for either ultrasound or static acid baths) is to (as I posted many times) generously drench the valve sections of my instruments with very inexpensive lamp oil (to lubricate but to also block the adherence of hard scale) before each time I play, and to jet fairly high velocity hot water through their valve sections (to remove loose dirt and scum, and with the main tuning slide removed) every few months. (This requires a rubber - not vinyl - hose, as the ends of vinyl hoses will come apart - usually scalding the person doing this
- when subjected to straight hot water tank heat. Obviously, a person must pay attention to avoid being scalded.)
@tofu
You can be annoyed with me for changing the subject, but just remember that I'm the one that did a near perfect job of straightening out your oem vintage 185 bell (which you seemed to judge as non-reparable) at no charge.
Broadening this topic,
The green that you see is copper verdigris mixed with hard scale. Hard scale is the real nemesis of brass instruments, and not so much loose dirt and scum (which certainly affect playing characteristics, but not the permanent welfare of the instrument).
Bathtub baths with Dawn detergent do not remove any hard scale, though they usually remove some of the dirt and scum (but often not in the knuckles between the valve casings - where the problematic dirt and scum - that which causes intermittent valve sticking, along with it being caused by hard scale deposits - actually hides).
Removing hard scale deposits safely (dissolving it);requires something safe, something acidic (not alkaline).
Personally, I don't view ultrasonic cleaning is particularly safe (though the equipment certainly is pricy - about the cost of a darn nice European made tuba), particularly if any dezinctfication has already occurred (as ultrasound has been known to blow holes in those weak spots).
My personal solution (to avoid the need for either ultrasound or static acid baths) is to (as I posted many times) generously drench the valve sections of my instruments with very inexpensive lamp oil (to lubricate but to also block the adherence of hard scale) before each time I play, and to jet fairly high velocity hot water through their valve sections (to remove loose dirt and scum, and with the main tuning slide removed) every few months. (This requires a rubber - not vinyl - hose, as the ends of vinyl hoses will come apart - usually scalding the person doing this
- when subjected to straight hot water tank heat. Obviously, a person must pay attention to avoid being scalded.) @tofu
You can be annoyed with me for changing the subject, but just remember that I'm the one that did a near perfect job of straightening out your oem vintage 185 bell (which you seemed to judge as non-reparable) at no charge.