TubaForum.net

Grumpikins wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2022 12:29 pm Do you have a trial assortment that someone can try out and choose what they like? That can be shipped out and back? Possibly with a refundable deposit?

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I require people to BUY everything that's shipped, but will accept for REFUND any/all components (please only "test" for a week, and have any returned parts on their way back by the eighth day after receiving them), as long as - once cleaned/sterilized - they are still in new condition.

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SIDEBAR:

I've never offered a "Helleberg"-style mouthpiece in the lineup.
I've actually (per typical: cutting on a junk mouthpiece) come up with something like a "Helleberg II/Laskey 30H" STYLE of mouthpiece that I sorta like.
I widened the top of the cup (slightly - still not 33mm), put my most popular rim contour (#2 profile) on it, altered the back-bore (so as to get a less-terse/more-noble type of resonance) and I've been messing with it on the big Miraphone and the compact Holton. I dunno if I'll produce a batch of 'em, but I'm thinking about it. (For me...) it certainly beats those previously mentioned in this paragraph (and all power to anyone who loves either of those). Just as with other mouthpieces of this style/type, it seems to offer forth a slightly more "in" main tuning slide position, so (if someone has a barely-up-to-pitch tuba AND might like this mouthpiece...??) it could come in handy in more than one way. LOL...The only thing that makes this prototype difficult to test is the fact that (having been cut from a junker) the shank had been previously messed up (the taper is slightly off)...and I don't have the technology to "add metal back"...at least (as with that really talented guy in NYC who would re-shank mouthpieces for people) neither my lathe skills (nor my lathe's accuracy) are good enough to do that stuff. PLEASE NOTE: This is ONLY in the "hmm" stage.

I’ve tried many bowl shaped mouthpieces on the Mira 190 b flat. Keep coming back to the symphony with the #2 33.2. I wish the mouthpieces went in further. Sits pretty far out even with small shank. Any ideas Bloke?

So, paying you a visit with horn(s) in tow may be a better option.... I'll need to ruminate on this for a while as i'm already in med-warm water with the mrs.... Down the road sometime.... I'm interested. But I have take a diplomatic approach.

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MikeMason wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2022 4:26 pm I’ve tried many bowl shaped mouthpieces on the Mira 190 b flat. Keep coming back to the symphony with the #2 33.2. I wish the mouthpieces went in further. Sits pretty far out even with small shank. Any ideas Bloke?

I don't see as there's any cause for concern unless/until the choke point (end of the tapered-downward receiver / beginning of the tapered-outward mouthpipe) is located.

The finest precision tool company in the world, HF , has their ultra-reliable set on sale right now for $13.50.

This smallest one - if the cable doesn't break - should be able to locate (if not measure) the choke point...

(If this is still too large, you can play around with your store's Erick Brand/Ferree's/Allied/whatever dent ball sent - along with a bicycle brake cable) and find the choke point that way.)

If the choke point isn't very far past your standard shank mouthpiece's insertion depth, I can't see as you would wish to change anything...

...ie whether the receiver extends out to cover up 1", 1-1/2", or 1/2" of your mouthpiece shank.

MikeMason wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2022 4:26 pm I’ve tried many bowl shaped mouthpieces on the Mira 190 b flat. Keep coming back to the symphony with the #2 33.2. I wish the mouthpieces went in further. Sits pretty far out even with small shank. Any ideas Bloke?

Assuming your mouthpiece has an American shank.
Buy extra shank.
Sandpaper by hand on the uglier of the two shanks.

Go slowly. Clean it really well before you test fit. If you go too far, sand just a bit off the end, effectively making the shank a bit shorter

bloke wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2022 5:33 pm

MikeMason wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2022 4:26 pm I’ve tried many bowl shaped mouthpieces on the Mira 190 b flat. Keep coming back to the symphony with the #2 33.2. I wish the mouthpieces went in further. Sits pretty far out even with small shank. Any ideas Bloke?

I don't see as there's any cause for concern unless/until the choke point (end of the tapered-downward receiver / beginning of the tapered-outward mouthpipe) is located.

The finest precision tool company in the world, HF , has their ultra-reliable set on sale right now for $13.50.

This smallest one - if the cable doesn't break - should be able to locate (if not measure) the choke point...

(If this is still too large, you can play around with your store's Erick Brand/Ferree's/Allied/whatever dent ball sent - along with a bicycle brake cable) and find the choke point that way.)

If the choke point isn't very far past your standard shank mouthpiece's insertion depth, I can't see as you would wish to change anything...

...ie whether the receiver extends out to cover up 1", 1-1/2", or 1/2" of your mouthpiece shank.

Or an unsharpened penci, roll of electrical tape, and a set of cheap digital calipers?

I can't think of any pencils (not even "primary" pencils) which are - minimally - 17/32" diameter or (hopefully a bit more than 9/16" diameter)...nor a pencil sharpener which would cut the end of one (that large) down to a cone...(??)

maybe...a donated (tip-broken-off, etc.) drumstick...?? - often 9/16" diameter, and with a tapered end...

...or am I not "getting" your point/suggestion?

I have one of your old style rims that is marked 2A - what is the difference between that and the 2 profile?

Stryk wrote: ↑Mon Jan 02, 2023 6:21 pm I have one of your old style rims that is marked 2A - what is the difference between that and the 2 profile?

It's a #2 profile with a small-ish inner (aka "cup") diameter.

I'm thinking it's 32.3mm inside...considered "medium" by some, but (as the smallest inner diameter rim in my entire signature offerings is 32.0mm) I tend to think of 32.3mm as "small"...

shanks:
Dave has grown weary of making the "P" shanks for me, but (yeah: me) I find that quite a few receivers - these days - are cut to just barely accommodate "standard" shanks (with the end of the mouthpiece pretty darn near the choke point) and - yet - the receivers often being artificially extended outward to appear to cover up enough of a "euro" shank...with - then - a euro mouthpiece shank often sitting between 1/4" to 5/16" or even 3/8" away from the choke point.

...but the reason he's annoyed with making the size is because not many people bought that in-between size, so...

With such receivers, I often find that the in-beween "P" shank is ideal...but it also depends on how much "fall-off" is in the back of the mouthpiece shank (ie. how THICK the metal is at the back of the mouthpiece - ie. a mouthpiece's "exit bore").

Just because I typed all that mumbo-jumbo crap (just above), don't get the impression that I know what I'm talking about.

All of my stuff is trial-and-error, and I don't know a damn thing about what I'm doing other than "hmm...that sounds/works/feels good", etc...

(...and maybe - ?? - don't let other people bullsh!t you, either.)

I - JUST NOW - pulled the (ancient - 2nd generation) Sellmansberger "Symphony cup/shank/33.2" #2 profile rim off the big Miraphone 98, and stuck one of my "student/economy" (silver plated brass) Symphony P shank cup/shank-as-one-piece mouthpieces (screwing on the same size rim) into the tuba...
...I played it for a few minutes, and went "hmm" (in a good way. I'm beginning to suspect that the "standard" shank was too close (nearly "right at") the tuba's mouthpiece receiver's choke point. (??) ...at least, I'm going to spend some time (with this in-between shank size) and review some "issues" that I've been encountering (response, etc.) The jury's out, but again: "hmm"

bloke wrote: ↑Mon Jan 02, 2023 4:03 pm I can't think of any pencils (not even "primary" pencils) which are - minimally - 17/32" diameter or (hopefully a bit more than 9/16" diameter)...nor a pencil sharpener which would cut the end of one (that large) down to a cone...(??)

maybe...a donated (tip-broken-off, etc.) drumstick...?? - often 9/16" diameter, and with a tapered end...

...or am I not "getting" your point/suggestion?

I might be off base, but I understand the goal to be to measure the smallest diameter point inside the leadpipe, presumably that's where the receiver meets the end of the pipe.

It is probably somewhere around .500" assuming an American shank mouthpiece fits.

Electrical tape wrapped 2/3 to 3/4 around a pen or pencil will build up the external diameter and is easily remove-able.

Once it "just fits" into the end of the leadpipe, remove and measure the OD of the taped up pencil with the calipers.

Do you have a small shank, like the small Denis Wick size?

bort2.0 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 03, 2023 9:29 am Do you have a small shank, like the small Denis Wick size?

If I may: yes. Link:
https://housermouthpiece.net/shop/sellm ... ew-shanks/

iiipopes wrote: ↑Tue Jan 03, 2023 11:36 am

bort2.0 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 03, 2023 9:29 am Do you have a small shank, like the small Denis Wick size?

If I may: yes. Link:
https://housermouthpiece.net/shop/sellm ... ew-shanks/

Thanks, I forgot about that Website. I thought they were all just ordered directly through Joe.

I wish y'all would just order them directly from me. I don't get any revenue at all when they are bought there, and the price is the same.

As far as small shank, I tried to not offer any back bores in small shank that feature large exit bores (whereby the back bore would have to be altered to fit inside a small shank), or that I don't think many people will find a use for that size cup with an instrument with a small shank receiver.

I offer the Imperial cup's back bore and two of the Solo back bores in small shank.

bloke wrote: ↑Tue Jan 03, 2023 7:16 pm I wish y'all would just order them directly from me. I don't get any revenue at all when they are bought there, and the price is the same.

Also, Joe knows his stuff and can recommend mouthpieces to get you EXACTLY what you want. I have sent a couple of my college students recently-ish to him for suggestions, especially the rim. I don't force these on students, but normally when I have them try other things, I bring my Geib, Alan Baer MMVI, Jim Self, Roger Bobo, some Bachs and Hellebergs, etc alongside to get an idea of what they like, what sounds good, etc. Every time, the Sellmansberger is in the final 2 with them. I tell them the costs and tell them to talk to Joe about the rim and other stuff, and they come back happy.

Joe, my post wasn't meant to take away from ordering directly from you. It was simply meant to show you do have a smaller shank for some cups, such as the Imperial. Sorry.

@bloke

Quick run-down of the Solo #1 vs. Solo #2 backbores?

You'll be getting an order from me for a complete Solo set shortly if you have any in stock.

I see this is unanswered but I would also like to know the bore sizes.

There aren't any throat sizes much larger than 8.2mm (medium-ish) and there are a few that are smaller.

Some of them feature a reverse taper, whereby the turn at the bottom of the cup is considerably larger than that size, but the backbore retreats down to c. 8.2mm down within the back-bore and then gets larger toward the (exterior) small end.

The in-development/nearly-ready-to-produce "Helleberg" thing will feature a larger throat, and the in-development/nearly-ready-to-produce shallow mouthpiece's throat features more like a large bass trombone size throat.