humBell wrote:Not bothering to change anyone's mind (saving perhaps mine in the process, and i think i'm allowed to do that, perhaps even encouraged, and well i's mine anyway) but...
What is a right way of sizing a tuba?
3/4: is that a euphonium?
4/4: what you played in high school.
5/4: won’t fit in the back seat any more.
6/4: that’s a big-a$$ tuba.
Serious: Each manufacturer had a standard instrument, and built their scheme around that. Some (Rudolf Meinl is an example) built larger standard instruments than the norm. Thus, for RM: 4/4 meant .810 bore (?) and 18” bell rotary tuba. 5/4 meant .840 bore (?) and 20” bell. 6/4 meant .890 or something equally horrendous and a 22” bell. 3/4 meant .750ish bore and 15-16” bell. Beyond that, they were roughly similar in terms of their dimensionless ratios (except ratios that include bugle length). The 3/4 was about the same size as a Miraphone 186 or a B&S 102, which those companies called 4/4.
But the scheme doesn’t deal well with differences in proportion. Most piston tubas have a 3/4” bore (or smaller), but vary widely (so to speak) in taper and outer branch size. Believe me, my Holton is an entirely different beast than my York Master was, despite that both have a 3/4” bore.
Schemes have been proposed, but really playing characteristics only roughly correlate with dimensions (as opposed to taper design), so none of the schemes help much beyond estimating what size car you’ll need to carry it.
I once showed a picture of a York Master with the outline of a Grand Rapids York of the same size superimposed on it, to demonstrate their similarities. Chuck Guzis nearly refuted the notion that such a comparison meant anything by superimposing the outline of a Jin-Bao tuba-shaped object over a Miraphone 186. That’s what I mean by design.
Bigger tubas do sound different than smaller tubas of the same shape and general design, but other aspects can make a bigger difference in any particular case.
Rick “there is no right way that is definitive” Denney