TubaForum.net

bloke wrote: ↑Fri Sep 17, 2021 9:44 am
You should use what we fesshunul tecknishunz use:

Duct tape, bailing wire, and JB Weld (and you can include WD-40 and Marvel Mystery Oil) have fixed more things for me than I care to admit. There is no reason for me to believe it would patch a leak on a tuba, that is, if you don't mind your tuba having that unpainted-car-with-Bondo-repairs-on-display look.

Doc wrote: ↑Fri Sep 17, 2021 9:57 am

bloke wrote: ↑Fri Sep 17, 2021 9:44 am
You should use what we fesshunul tecknishunz use:

Duct tape, bailing wire, and JB Weld (and you can include WD-40 and Marvel Mystery Oil) have fixed more things for me than I care to admit. There is no reason for me to believe it would patch a leak on a tuba, that is, if you don't mind your tuba having that unpainted-car-with-Bondo-repairs-on-display look.

A couple of observations

• I can tell that's a Google Web/P file, but otherwise I have no idea what it's intended to portray. Sometimes a couple of words are better than 10,000 bytes of garbage.
• whatever it is, is it to fix, or to diagnose? I think diagnosis has not been done yet.
• probably meant "no reason for me to believe it would not patch"? This construct is generally litotes, a category briefly brought to wider public appreciation in a Monty Python skit where it was one of the many forms of irony cruelly inflicted on prisoners by a sadistic sarcastic.

donn wrote: ↑Fri Sep 17, 2021 2:10 pm A couple of observations

• I can tell that's a Google Web/P file, but otherwise I have no idea what it's intended to portray. Sometimes a couple of words are better than 10,000 bytes of garbage.
• whatever it is, is it to fix, or to diagnose? I think diagnosis has not been done yet.

JB Weld is an epoxy/adhesive that can produce incredible bonds between surfaces and can, in fact, stop leaks in certain circumstances.

[*]probably meant "no reason for me to believe it would not patch"? This construct is generally litotes, a category briefly brought to wider public appreciation in a Monty Python skit where it was one of the many forms of irony cruelly inflicted on prisoners by a sadistic sarcastic.[/list]

Haste makes waste. And misunderstanding. It should read (as you rightly indicate):

"There is no reason for me to believe it would not patch a leak on a tuba..." In simpler terms, "This $#!+ ought to work."

I have used that stuff on something - where I believe it failed, but can't really remember. Just want to point out that these days you can find a whole shelf load of "J B Weld" products - include cyanoacrylate glue, which when subsequently heated with a torch in the process of doing a real repair, will turn into healthful cyanide gas! (Or close enough, I can't attest to the actual chemistry, but it's enough like cyanide for one of our esteemed repairman who doesn't believe cyanide gas really is healthful.) Get something with 2 parts that have to be mixed together.

Doc wrote: ↑Fri Sep 17, 2021 8:49 am @dreamofoenghus
Please let us see it and hear it once you receive it!

@bort2.0
There is nothing inherently wrong with an abundance of research preceding a serious outlay of cash. Measure twice, cut once.

You know how I am about such things.

I will try to do so. Just keep in mind that I’m not profeshnul like some of you guys and I know my limitations.

We sure aren't all professionals, or even very good players. You just have to like tubas; they don't have to like you.

If epoxy weren't so brittle (compared to brass' malleability), it would be be a bunch easier to build instruments using epoxy glue.
If some lack-of-attention-to-detail repair-guy missed a small spot on a solder joint, it's probably just fine for plugging a little air leak.

Most RUN-OF-THE-MILL epoxy glues, though, BEGIN to give up the ghost at around 150 degrees F...and instruments occasionally get hotter than than when (some) people buff them.

When Yamaha pro-line saxes are handled a bit roughly (such as bar-played, marched-with, etc.) it's not uncommon to find that the bottom bow glue joint has failed. In my experience, Vintage Selmer instruments either fit VERY snugly or were soldered (underneath the ring).

dreamofoenghus wrote: ↑Fri Sep 17, 2021 9:09 pm

Doc wrote: ↑Fri Sep 17, 2021 8:49 am @dreamofoenghus
Please let us see it and hear it once you receive it!

@bort2.0
There is nothing inherently wrong with an abundance of research preceding a serious outlay of cash. Measure twice, cut once.

You know how I am about such things.

I will try to do so. Just keep in mind that I’m not profeshnul like some of you guys and I know my limitations.

No problem. Just like @donn said, not everyone here is a professional, although we do have some here. Participation, sharing, etc. is always encouraged whether you are a professional, a semi-pro/weekend warrior, amateur, student, teacher, craftsman, tinkerer, aficionado, geek, nerd, has-been, or a never-was. It's all good in the tuba hood. Bust a move.

Doc (who's been most of those things at some time or another... simultaneously and at the same time)

ParLawGod wrote: ↑Wed Sep 15, 2021 11:02 am I had an Olds O-99-4 a few years back (mentioned on several ocassions that I regret selling it). Had the third tuning slide shortened so it would play better in tune. After that was one of the better BBb tubas I've played in regards to pitch.

Overpriced, but if someone were local (wouldn't have to pay shipping) and they'd knock a little off...could be had at a okay price. Don't see them in this condition too much anymore!

I got the horn and have only played just a short while. When I have enough time to get comfortable, I’ll try to post something. That said, ParLaw seems right on the money about the third tuning slide. I can’t push it in enough to play an F# in tune.

donn wrote: ↑Fri Sep 17, 2021 8:53 am It's so new looking I barely recognize it. Other people have reported the same weight. I never weighed mine, that I remember, but it only had 3 valves anyway. They're lighter when they don't have a lot of "distilled water" in them from being played.

It might be interesting to stand it up and put a bucket of water down the bell, to see if any leaks out of the bottom bow dents.

Also, keen detective work Donn. I haven’t done the bucket test, but I noticed a couple drops of water on the floor after playing a little bit, and had not yet opened any spit valves…so I suspect there’s a pinhole somewhere in there. How big of a deal is that, playing-wise?

Otherwise, first impressions are that it’s got a good solid tone and sings out nice in the middle and upper registers. I’m still trying to navigate the bottom end. It definitely doesn’t blow like a 5/4 large bore rotary. I’ve got a learning curve there.

dreamofoenghus wrote: ↑Wed Sep 22, 2021 6:50 pm I noticed a couple drops of water on the floor after playing a little bit, and had not yet opened any spit valves…so I suspect there’s a pinhole somewhere in there.

FIrst thing I'd check is those spit valves, or water keys if you prefer. I bet they're wet, because that's where the water came out. Might need new cork.

What I was looking at was the bottom bow. I don't know if it's humanly possible to collect compensation in the bottom bow of a tuba? There's a lot of air, and a lot of smaller tubing between you and that bottom bow. Water from any normal indoor playing session ... I don't think it's going to get past the main tuning slide, so it's coming from the valve section. I wouldn't care to predict what the effect of such leaks might be - I think it depends on exactly where they are, by rules that no one understands - but there's no harm in getting them stopped up.

re: bottom bow condensation

It’s real, but under certain circumstances. Having lived in humid areas for my whole life, it’s easy to get some condensation in the larger bows and branches, including the bottom bow:

Have tuba stored in a room around 68F with a relative humidity around 60%. Take tuba out of said room and directly outdoors where it’s 89F and 90% (or greater) RH and start practicing immediately.

Condensation galore.

Ok, moment of genius. Somehow, I managed to mistake the 2nd #3 slide for the #4 slide, so I had it way out for 4th, and only the 1st #3 slide pushed in all the way…I’m blaming sleep deprivation, but I realize that was just dumb oversight. Anyway, it is a rather uncommon layout, right? Regardless, with both #3 slides in, it was pretty much where it needed to be. I do wish the 4th slide were a little longer, in the event of wanting to get a low Eb or something, but it’s not a big deal. I could just give #1 a pull I guess.

Not sure about the water thing either. I didn’t play long enough make much condensation today, but I didn’t notice any leaking. It’s got new corks and they seem tight. I hoping it was just something silly like me bumping the water key and not knowing it.



“Patrick, your genius is showing.”

“What!? Where!?”