TubaForum.net

bort2.0 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 08, 2022 10:53 am Thanks, Bill!

I'd like to check out @MN_TimTuba's Stofer-modified 2341 sometime. That's supposed to be a really really nice tuba.

MN_TimTuba wrote: ↑Fri Jul 08, 2022 11:57 am

bort2.0 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 08, 2022 10:53 am Thanks, Bill!

I'd like to check out @MN_TimTuba's Stofer-modified 2341 sometime. That's supposed to be a really really nice tuba.

Brett,
I'll be in Roseville tomorrow, singing at the funeral of a close friend. Had I not already made plans for afterward I'd bring along the King. We could meet at Ron's house (I suppose we'd have to check with him first) and give several horns a workout.
Raincheck?
Tim

bort2.0 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 08, 2022 1:37 pm

For sure. I'm down in New Ulm for the weekend anyway.

bloke wrote:A 4/4 York-"like/size" tuba is just enough smaller than (new-style) King to function really well as a brass quintet B-flat tuba...better than a King, in that regard...more clarity/definition and - when needed - "front".

A new-style King - arguably - is just enough larger than a 4/4 York-"like/size" to serve slightly more effectively in a wind-band tuba.

These size differences are subtle, though, as to be NEARLY OF NO CONSEQUENCE...but that's PRECISELY what we discuss here, isn't it:

"that which is of no consequence"

If using either in a paid or quite good community orchestra, a player should be prepared to be conscientious regarding pulling the upper #4 slide for all of the B-naturals they will encounter, OR devise something - in the way of a particular length of 5th valve circuit - that I did on my Holton (defacto: same size-and-type-of-resonance as a 4/4 York) B-flat.
===================
With a "long whole step" 5th circuit (specifically) with a B-flat tuba, the "low E-flat" (encountered, but fairly seldom) is push-button ready, YET the far-more-often-encountered B-natural above that "low E-flat" USUALLY - unless a tuba features a to-the-good quirk - asks for REMOVING the left hand from the #1 slide, reaching over to the #4 slide, and pulling that one out (for good 2-4 B-natural intonation, as - nearly always - 5-2-3 is too flat for B-natural).
I choose an adjusted semitone as MORE B-naturals (and low E-naturals, for that matter) are encountered than low E-flats, so my decision resulted in BOTH the B AND low E being push-button ready, with low E-flat requiring a pull of the #4 slide for it's 5-2-4 valve combination.

IN CONTRAST, a C tuba VERY STRONGLY ASKS for it's 5th slide to be an adjusted WHOLE tone, as "low F" is even more commonly written/played than ANY of the previously-mentioned pitches, and - thus - a push-button low-F is a VERY strongly-desired feature.

bloke wrote: ↑Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:54 am I won't scratch my name into it anywhere, as that would surely warn people off of buying it - when my descendants liquidate my leftover crap.

Yorkboy wrote: ↑Sat Dec 19, 2020 7:29 pm

bloke wrote:Though it was pretty stubborn, I actually got one out of an outside slide tube today that had been embedded up inside for at least sixty years - if not seventy or eighty.

Tough work, indeed - I'm unsuccessful just about as often as I'm successful, using the fire wrench and Kroil.

York-aholic wrote: ↑Sun Nov 20, 2022 6:41 pm

Yorkboy wrote: ↑Sat Dec 19, 2020 7:29 pm

bloke wrote:Though it was pretty stubborn, I actually got one out of an outside slide tube today that had been embedded up inside for at least sixty years - if not seventy or eighty.

Tough work, indeed - I'm unsuccessful just about as often as I'm successful, using the fire wrench and Kroil.

I had a funny one the other day. I was running a pretty big/long brush though a piece of outer slide tubing (not mounted on a horn) and the bore spacer came out still stuck on the long brush bristles...