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That's a good improvement !

If there are any large dents in that lower bell section, you could try whacking them (from the inside) with the back side of a very large cooking spoon.

A high-school friend of mine enlightened me (regarding that homespun-yet-effective) technique, after he improved the looks of his school-owned tuba.

bloke wrote: ↑Wed Jun 02, 2021 7:50 am .. you could try whacking them (from the inside) with the back side of a very large cooking spoon.

My Grandmother would have been good at that...

Looking good bort! What have you been using to remove the lacquer and then polish it?

Tubajug wrote: ↑Wed Jun 02, 2021 10:09 am Looking good bort! What have you been using to remove the lacquer and then polish it?

Brasso and 4-O steel wool, then wipe down with a clean rag. Not sure if that's right or wrong, but it's working pretty well and not scratching the metal once the lacquer is off.

Will take a while, but easy enough to do while thinking about other stuff...

York-aholic wrote: ↑Sun May 30, 2021 11:38 pm According to this catalog picture, a sousaphone bit wasn't part of the design...

https://simonettitubacollection.files.w ... 46-20j.jpg <-- larger image

Interesting. The above catalog ignored the tuning bit.

Some of the Conn catalogs didn't show the adjustable tuning bit, but mentioned it in the description.

Others show and mention the tuning bit.

I have included a few examples.

https://www.saxophone.org/uploads/museu ... 12_525.jpg

https://www.saxophone.org/uploads/museu ... 3_1907.jpg

https://www.saxophone.org/uploads/museu ... 8_1504.jpg

Art Hovey converted a 20J to a 4v front action with a valve set he got from MM.

http://galvanizedjazz.com/tuba/20J/20Jconversion.html

Those 20Js seem to do well in big concert bands where it can be an advantage to play really loud at times. There are ways around intonation quirks and false tones are useable. I had one for awhile but it was big and heavy and I had to carry it long distances so, when someone posted a WTB, I put a price on it and sold it. The buyer was in training to be a repair tech and wanted "something with a lot of dents in it". You want dents? I got your dents. He sent me a picture of it in pieces on the floor and I just figured he would work on it for a couple of months and lose interest. Four years later, he sent me pictures with the dents pulled out and in polished raw brass! Good for him.

First tuba I owned was a Conn 20j from the 50's. The tuning bit made it better and I played it with the Helleberg 120s (recommended by Roger who is now with Miraphone when he was WWBW). Played well. Would get the four valve. Got all the dents out and sold it. Enjoyed it. Highly recommend especially for community band.

...

peterbas wrote: ↑Wed Nov 10, 2021 2:44 am
Yeah, but you had it coming

Had I been guilty....

The natural order of things (right to left, of course).



Rick "mine's not for sale :) " Denney

"Recording" my thoughts on the 20J.

I've been playing this for 53 years.
Since 1979, I've played it standing up, which is a breeze with the proper accessory.
Once I played a Blues Orphans show 3 hrs nonstop, the only discomfort was my bladder.
See www.youtube.com/professorbeautiful for about a thousand examples
across lots of genres, a variety of small groups, where I get a lot of soloing chances,
and a lot of unaccompanied recordings too, mostly Bach and Monk.

I also have a 4-valve, but the 4th valve is unnecessary.
( On the 20J I play down to A0 reliably).
Furthermore it pushes my wrist in an uncomfortable position.

Intonation-- lots of problems, but alt fingering has done wonders.
After 30 minutes playing, what was working doesn't and what wasn't now does.
So... stay alert!