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Is 1/8" diameter "good enough" for most applications, or is that too thick?

Trying to get a feel for what the "Miraphone 186" of the solder world is before I plop down a bit of cash.

If you are an amateur, the thinner stuff usually works better. Don't forget to use flux

I am kind of OK at soldering. If I really need it to look pretty I take it to someone else. I've found 1/16" 60-40 is the easiest to work with for me. I like Johnson's Soldering Fluid for flux.

LOL...as long as the two things you're soldering together don't feature gaps wider than 1/8".

bloke wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2024 9:27 am LOL...as long as the two things you're soldering together don't feature gaps wider than 1/8".

You’re bringing back memories of someone I know that prides himself on being able to bridge any brace gap without doing any fitting. His repairs had to weigh half pound more when he was done!

MiBrassFS wrote: ↑Sat Oct 05, 2024 6:40 am

bloke wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2024 9:27 am LOL...as long as the two things you're soldering together don't feature gaps wider than 1/8".

You’re bringing back memories of someone I know that prides himself on being able to bridge any brace gap without doing any fitting. His repairs had to weigh half pound more when he was done!

I'm going to confess that the mouthpipe on my compact Holton is like that right now. Before I ever put a finish on it, there about three things I want to do to it. One of them is to take all that solder out of there, mash the mouthpipe down against the bell nicely, re-solder it, and then - using bicycle brake cable and greased dent balls - pull dent balls through from the first valve casing towards the receiver until I've rounded it back out. It won't need much rounding, because the gap isn't all that bad, but I just don't like even slightly oval mouthpipes... unless someone is asking "Can you make a new mouthpie for this crappy tuba for $120?" In that case, I would need to stop at $120 worth of work and supplies.