Dillons: Fixed recording bell King 1240

[humBell]

https://www.dillonmusic.com/used-king-1 ... sn-230266/

[KingTuba1241X]

Love Dillon's, but they always get little details wrong about their instruments. This horn has a Post 1940 serial number (WW2 ERA) and has the lead pipe directly into the valve section (also tell-tale sign of at least WW2 ERA). Based on that, it looks more like a 1941 which would be a cool historic horn to own.

[hrender]

Good horns. I have a 1927 with a leadpipe slide. 3rd valve is tune-able using either the upper or lower slides. I use the lower slide since it has more pull. Mine's an oddball with the larger bore (.750) King had available back in the day.

I think there's another one available on the auction site as well.

[prairieboy1]

These are terrific horns. My King 1240 dates from 1935. I have played it for a very long time. Great intonation and sound projection, especially outside!

[sdloveless]

I actually bought that horn. Drove out there from Harrisburg, PA last month. Got stuck in a traffic jam on the way home. 2 hours out, 6 hours back. Heh. It looks like the link in the original post is dead, but they had it listed on Reverb here https://reverb.com/item/34994455-used-k ... -sn-230266

Based on the H.N. White site, the serial number falls in the 1939-1940 range. http://www.hnwhite.com/Serial%20Numbers.htm Admittedly, they do indicate that dating serial numbers hasn't always been an exact science. But there is also a scan of a 1940 brochure showing the straight lead pipe on this page: http://www.hnwhite.com/Low%20Brass.htm#Symphony Specifically: http://www.hnwhite.com/King/Low%20Brass ... 0Large.jpg

Based on that, I wouldn't think Dillon got it wrong, but if there's some conflicting information out there I'd love to see it. I've gone down this rabbit hole with antique bicycles more than once and it's always fascinating.

Anyway, the horn seems to play well. There's good valve compression. Removing the main tuning slide and plugging the hole on the valve section side makes it impossible to move any air. Valve slides will "pop" if removed without pressing the button down first. I think if there are any intonation issues, they're probably on the input side of the mouthpiece.

Thanks!

[KingTuba1241X]

I actually bought that horn. Drove out there from Harrisburg, PA last month. Got stuck in a traffic jam on the way home. 2 hours out, 6 hours back. Heh. It looks like the link in the original post is dead, but they had it listed on Reverb here https://reverb.com/item/34994455-used-k ... -sn-230266

Based on the H.N. White site, the serial number falls in the 1939-1940 range. http://www.hnwhite.com/Serial%20Numbers.htm Admittedly, they do indicate that dating serial numbers hasn't always been an exact science. But there is also a scan of a 1940 brochure showing the straight lead pipe on this page: http://www.hnwhite.com/Low%20Brass.htm#Symphony Specifically: http://www.hnwhite.com/King/Low%20Brass ... 0Large.jpg

Based on that, I wouldn't think Dillon got it wrong, but if there's some conflicting information out there I'd love to see it. I've gone down this rabbit hole with antique bicycles more than once and it's always fascinating.

Anyway, the horn seems to play well. There's good valve compression. Removing the main tuning slide and plugging the hole on the valve section side makes it impossible to move any air. Valve slides will "pop" if removed without pressing the button down first. I think if there are any intonation issues, they're probably on the input side of the mouthpiece.

Thanks!

It's the correct vintage of roughly 1939. They started putting the lead pipe directly into the 1st valve sometime around 35-37' based on serial numbers. This is a rare bird and historic time for a horn to be built. How does it play?

[sdloveless]

It's the correct vintage of roughly 1939. They started putting the lead pipe directly into the 1st valve sometime around 35-37' based on serial numbers. This is a rare bird and historic time for a horn to be built. How does it play?

I also got the original case with it. Matt Walters said he'd never actually seen one before. It's in rough shape and needs new latches and hinges. I won't restore, so to speak, but I plan to get it into functional condition this winter.

I can't really find any fault with the horn, but I also haven't played in 27 years. Somehow, I've managed to hold on to a two-tone Helleberg that an instructor gave to me in the early nineties, so I've been using that. I'm not overly fond of the recording bell, but a friend wants to put together a Dixieland band and I really think this is perfect horn for that sort of thing. Matt had done a valve alignment before I bought it. They operate smoothly. No leaks that I can detect anywhere on the horn. I do wish it had a few more spit valves. I'm also considering having the 1st valve tubing reversed, but I really need to get to a point where I can actually control my own intonation first.

No complaints. I'd buy it again.

[KingTuba1241X]

It's the correct vintage of roughly 1939. They started putting the lead pipe directly into the 1st valve sometime around 35-37' based on serial numbers. This is a rare bird and historic time for a horn to be built. How does it play?

I also got the original case with it. Matt Walters said he'd never actually seen one before. It's in rough shape and needs new latches and hinges. I won't restore, so to speak, but I plan to get it into functional condition this winter.

I can't really find any fault with the horn, but I also haven't played in 27 years. Somehow, I've managed to hold on to a two-tone Helleberg that an instructor gave to me in the early nineties, so I've been using that. I'm not overly fond of the recording bell, but a friend wants to put together a Dixieland band and I really think this is perfect horn for that sort of thing. Matt had done a valve alignment before I bought it. They operate smoothly. No leaks that I can detect anywhere on the horn. I do wish it had a few more spit valves. I'm also considering having the 1st valve tubing reversed, but I really need to get to a point where I can actually control my own intonation first.

No complaints. I'd buy it again.

That's cool, most of those older 1240's are so in tune with minor slide adjustments, it might be a waste to change it. It's not like you're using the 1st valve to play lots of Pedal E flats and D flats, and C's. That horn will be the perfect Dixieland horn. If you already haven't looked up Fred Dupin on YouTube and FB, do so and check out his recordings with the old King 1240 he had. He really gets a warm punchy full traditional King sound from his you will enjoy.