TubaForum.net

Been looking at this tuba, but have not found any accounts of how it plays on the interwebz



The bugle looks reminiscent of many turn of the 20th century American British style Eb basses, and the American imitations of them - a couple of which I've played and enjoyed.
Are they a stencil of anything, or a "parts bin" horn?

At the price point some music shops are selling them for, I wouldn't mind picking one up sight unseen, but some first hand accounts would be nice; I'd mostly like to know if they're of similar build quality to the other Packer horns I've played. If they are, I would much rather buy one of these than a "bargain" 1900 or so small bass on fleabay that was buffed up to look shiny on the outside, but has corroding solder points that disintegrate with little more than a warm water rinse.

Upon closer inspection, the mouthpipe on this tuba is too low to be played comfortably by me
I didn't realize I was looking at a 31" tall >13" bell tuba
As you were

a mystery instrument…

JP mostly sells these in the UK (maybe Japan as well…??) to schools, and - when I’ve asked about them - was told that they would have to ship one from London.

mouthpipe position:
Realize that top action tubas tilt to the right, which elevates the mouthpiece receiver.

Find a picture of my 32 inch tall front-action Holton B-flat that I built (repair forum), and take a look at the position of that mouthpipe. Tilting front-actions to the left also elevates the receiver.

bloke wrote: ↑Sun Oct 02, 2022 9:52 pm a mystery instrument…

mouthpipe position:
Realize that top action tubas tilt to the right, which elevates the mouthpiece receiver.

ah, you're completely right. Guess my brain was too stoopid to imagine it
Worst case, I could always lay a small cushion on my lap to rest it on.
Still, I'd probably want to confirm it at least has a "close enough" scale before having one drop shipped.

Quite a few of the JP instruments (of all types) feature short online playing reviews on YouTube, but not this model.
Further – and I’m not mentioning any names nor models or makes of instruments, (though some more recently made reviews of tubas have been done by a very competent player) some playing video reviews of tubas – in the past – had been done by people who just aren’t very good players, thereby offering no really good hints at how those instruments actually play.

I know what you mean. it's particularly annoying when there's a long-winded explanation of the horn followed by a short demonstration (what the viewer was searching for) that sounds like a blown out woofer speaker playing back taco bell aftermath.

Bumping this thread...I'm parting ways with my Schiller/Jinbao JBBB-520 BB-flat and going strictly E-flat.

I'm very curious about acquiring this model as an complimentary instrument to my Holton Monster E-flat. If the JP077 is responsive with decent intonation and usable false tones, this could be just the ticket.

Since the last post, has anyone given one of these a test play? If so, what are your impressions?

If I wasn't so tall, I would seriously be looking at a JP277

I got the NStar, neener neener!

I like the 377 almost as much as the Norwegian star, I think the 377 has a bigger tone obviously but I like the Norwegian Star because of the valve configuration.

They're such different instruments it's honestly hard to compare them

077 and 377 differ even more than Miraphone rotary and 377.

Rob Hanson (company owner, brass band cornet player) tells me that they work.
UK peeps know a good bit about E-flat tubas.
...not so much about C, I'm thinking...
I'll private message a price quote, if you like...
You don't even need to acknowledge receipt.
(ie. It's the last you'll hear from me, unless I hear from you first.)

bloke wrote: ↑Mon Apr 24, 2023 2:30 pm 077 and 377 differ even more than Miraphone rotary and 377.

Rob Hanson (company owner, brass band cornet player) tells me that they work.
UK peeps know a good bit about E-flat tubas.
...not so much about C, I'm thinking...
I'll private message a price quote, if you like...
You don't even need to acknowledge receipt.
(ie. It's the last you'll hear from me, unless I hear from you first.)

You already e-mailed me a price on this model back in January; once my Schiller is sold, I'll get in touch for an update.

Someone here is gonna have to be the first to try one of these...looks like I'm the guy.

If you are a bit short-waisted (I have absolutely no idea, obviously), the 277 might work out for you (??)

TheDoctor wrote: ↑Sun Oct 02, 2022 9:37 pm Upon closer inspection, the mouthpipe on this tuba is too low to be played comfortably by me
I didn't realize I was looking at a 31" tall >13" bell tuba
As you were

I have a small three valve Besson Eb Bass and it’s grand, I have played other small British Eb Basses and they have been grand too.

My suspicion is that this JP instrument is really sized for a junior (age) and is not what an adult would gain good use from. If you want a three valve non compensating Eb Bass then Yamaha do one - other Tubas are available from other manufacturers but they might all be chinese clones - and Yamaha also do a four valve version of that instrument too. Those that have the four valve version seem to hold onto them; for Brass Band playing I’d likely be happy enough with either, but four valves is nice.

If I were in the USA then I’d keep an eye open for an older USA built instrument.

Privilege notes, you might be lucky and get some but don’t count on them.

Good luck.

I'm not really pushing to sell one of these 077 instruments, and I would only probably stand to make a couple hundred bucks, because I don't mark their prices up very much percentage wise, so what I'm saying is it's not important to me whether or not someone buys one of these from me or anyone else, but I would like to point out again that - being top action - the instrument tilts away from the player which causes the mouthpie to go up. It is low, but it might possibly high enough for someone to use, depending on the person's size.

The 277 is the less expensive four valve compensating version, but also features a low mouthpipe which some refer to as Fletcher style. That feature has kept me from selling many of those 277 instruments, even though they cost considerably less than the 377.

Mary Ann wrote:I got the NStar, neener neener!

Congrats! Very happy you got it back.


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bloke wrote: ↑Tue Apr 25, 2023 7:44 am I'm not really pushing to sell one of these 077 instruments, and I would only probably stand to make a couple hundred bucks, because I don't mark their prices up very much percentage wise, so what I'm saying is it's not important to me whether or not someone buys one of these from me or anyone else, but I would like to point out again that - being top action - the instrument tilts away from the player which causes the mouthpie to go up. It is low, but it might possibly high enough for someone to use, depending on the person's size.

The 277 is the less expensive four valve compensating version, but also features a low mouthpipe which some refer to as Fletcher style. That feature has kept me from selling many of those 277 instruments, even though they cost considerably less than the 377.

, it's almost like they sabotaged the 277 to keep it from cutting into the 377 sales. Glad they didn't do that with the 274 euphonium

This is REALLY a non sequitur, but jazz combo gigs are becoming so far apart from each other that (Sunday brunch approaching) I actually pulled my (1958 Besson) compensating E-flat down off the wall and played it for a day or two. I even looked at the tune list which was sent (which I never do), went on YouTube, found some bands that played those tunes in the same keys, and played some solos along with those videos - to get myself back into playing this thing.
(I believe it was a damn good idea; it's been a long time.)

I was also reminded about the recording bell phenomenon, and how tempting it is to overplay, due to not being able to hear it very well. My memory was also refreshed regarding minor intonation quirks. I had sort of forgotten that the "middle" F sharp - with valves 2&3 - is pretty darn sharp.

I was also reminded that this thing's in pretty darn good shape, and probably less than two hours work would result in this instrument being absolutely dent-free and ready to put a new finish on it - were I to desire to do so. I'm thinking that I might break my own rule about silver, and someday put a new satin silver finish on it, because that was a common premium finish on these particular instruments.

I suppose the main point I'm trying to make is that I miss playing the E flat, and I'm looking forward to playing it, this coming Sunday.

I'm thinking of buying one of these new for my son who is entering high school this year. He's been playing tuba for 3 years on a Besson 1000 series loaned by the school. Any thoughts on whether this would work for him? I can't find any stores with one in stock for him to try it out. Any help appreciated!

I'm thinking that the Besson 1000 is a B-flat - maybe made in India (??) and this JP is a small E-flat tuba (which is not only smaller but shorter).

I don't know when you're son began playing, but - if he began playing in the 5th grade, he's already a 7th grader (I'm guessing...??).

I sell this line of instruments (JP), and - if all of them - that are probably more of a good musical fit for your son - are outside your budget (and I completely understand if anything is outside of anyone's budget), you might want to get someone (who's pretty good at looking at pictures of tubas and guessing whether they're in decent mechanical shape or not) and shop for a used King (King is a brand) full size tuba on eBay - probably one of the older ones with a detachable bell, as those tend to go for prices that are pretty affordable. Otherwise, I think anything that JP sells - that would probably be more pleasing to your son, and any sort of move up from that Besson 1000 - needs to be one of their offerings that costs somewhere between $3,000 - $4500 (even at the most competitive pricing). ... There is a $2,000 B-flat instrument, but that sort of a sideways move from the 1000 that you are already using.