TubaForum.net

EDITED

My Kurath has some tuning issues that are minor, but my new leadpipe, while making them less bad, makes them more tightly slotted so that lipping is less friendly. (I detest flipping and prefer alternates when practicable, so this is a net positive for me.)

What I want to know, is whether under normal conditions the 6th is SHORT enough to use as an alternate for 2nd on 23 combinations. As with many tubas, a lot of intonation issues come to a meeting point in this overtone series, so the various Db and Ab pitches are not in tune. I have my 6th cut so that it yields me an in-tune low B (46) as well as some other low notes that give it its raison d'être.

What I want to know — really — is what do you use your 6th valve for outside of its intended low register application? What functionality does it add that you did not expect? When do you use it as an alternate 2nd in the staff?

How about 126?

Assuming the 6th valve is a long 1/2 step, I use the 6th valve as follows:

With the 4th valve, for F# & low B (ALWAYS in tune)
With the 1st valve to get the As and Ds in tune
From low A on down, I use it with the 5th valve as a 2 tone valve
On Meistersinger, I play the high b with the 6th valve, and trill DOWN to a with the first valve.
"Over the break" trills & slurs are smoother, i.e. G to Ab. Play G, 236, then move the 6th valve
"Optional" fingerings (of which there are many) to make technical passages smoother, or easier.
For pitch purposes (too many to mention, but I'm open to a phone call to discuss)

Your F tuba and mine are fairly different, but I've been known to use 126 for low d flat sometimes, and 236 for C, sometimes.

... I don't believe I answered your question. I don't think 63 would work out as anything useful for me. Does that answer your question?

I find that on my Alexander F that valve is a little closer to a true 3/4 step. For me, I use it more with 136 for a solid F# or B natural. It also gives me a dead-on low G 1346.

I have enough slide to make it work for a C# 126, but it sits a little on the low side (15-20 cents) without pushing in. I don't have a short enough slide to make it work 36... I think that Bloke's B&S bugle is similar to mine, so I would expect that to be a fair bit different on your big piston F. My 23 combination is pretty close on the overtone series (lucked out of that one!) it's the 12 or 3rd valve A's and D's that I find myself moving a slide for.

My best low G is 5634
My best low A is 564... but I have a right hand thumb trigger on the 5th slide, and I >barely< trigger the 5th slide out a smidge. Otherwise, it's still best - but slightly sharp, whereas 234 is flatter than 564 is sharp.
Low G-sharp is 6234.

For playing tuba solos (that no one wants to hear), it's pretty handy for mashing down a half step too few valves for any pitch in particular, and using it for a semitone trill.

I am just hoping that what seems to be so fantastic in the low register will also be the needed length to play middle-line Db 36 or 126…

126 is probably going to already be longer than 23, and therefore 36 might (??) be too much correction.

unsolicited remark:

You probably know that my F cimbasso that I built is five valves with a second slide trigger. When playing what might be considered to be "hot licks" in the very low range, I find it to be confusing as hell, and have to run those licks at home until my fingers learn the weird-to-me patterns.

the elephant wrote: ↑Tue Dec 13, 2022 7:05 pm I am just hoping that what seems to be so fantastic in the low register will also be the needed length to play middle-line Db 36 or 126…

For me, depending on who I'm playing with, 3-6 is a magic solution for the middle-line Db.

By the way, hey guys!

Rick "been engrossed in a new toy for a while" Denney

on the B&S 6 valve F tuba which I sold years ago:

Db in the staff was flat-ish
Db below the staff was sharp-ish

1+2+6 played both of them just right. It was super weird, but OK.

126 worked great for Db on my Vienna style Alex F, as well.

Well, on that tuba it was LH 12 + RH 2, but that's not very relevant.

cjk wrote: ↑Thu Jan 05, 2023 4:39 pm on the B&S 6 valve F tuba which I sold years ago:

Db in the staff was flat-ish
Db below the staff was sharp-ish

1+2+6 played both of them just right. It was super weird, but OK.

Yes to both, but after I moved to a smaller mouthpiece throat, I was able to play any of these pitches with any of those fingerings just fine.