TubaForum.net

Hypothetical...

Let's say someone wanted to purchase a valve section for their 835 bore rotor tuba... Where would be the best place to source such a thing?

1. Cerveny
2.Miraphone
3. (what's that euro supplier that sells valve sections?)

LeMark wrote: ↑Wed Jan 03, 2024 12:16 pm 3. (what's that euro supplier that sells valve sections?)

Meinlschmidt? https://www.jm-gmbh.de/en/rotary-valves/

Thats the one, thanks

Voight probably has what you want too, but they are only B2B and their site is down for maintenance (so I can't see if they have that size valves anyway).

https://www.voigt-brass.de/en/instrumen ... nents.html

that was great, thank you!

Anyone have an idea of how much a valve set from one of those companies might cost with the springs and spatulas?

LeMark wrote: ↑Wed Jan 03, 2024 12:56 pm that was great, thank you!

Anyone have an idea of how much a valve set from one of those companies might cost with the springs and spatulas?

Tubing too, or just rotors and paddle assemby?

I'd hazard a guess at a couple thousand Euro.

dont need the tubing, but I would want to replace the paddles and springs at the same time. I have a clockwork section right now

@LeMark, one cheaper solution might be available closer to you. There's a beat to hell Cerveny 693 for sale not too far from you for not too much cash. You might be able to talk them down, as it's been listed forever. A quick googling makes it look like this has the same bore as the 601, though bring your calipers! From the 2 old valvesets you might be able to cobble together one airtight one.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... tid=dXMIcH

I saw that, and I do know the guy. I may give him a call

I'm thinking that the factory that makes JP can make a Miraphone 91 copy (if someone orders one).
You might hook up with Rob...
If he says you need a dealer, I'm willing to sell it to you.

If the fit of the stop arms doesn't end up being super-tight, the rotor assemblies themselves are probably the best made in China.

Yes, Miraphone will make you a wonderful one...and I'm willing to be the dealer (if needed) for that as well.

Miraphone can make 21.2mm rotor assemblies in two sizes:
- the 186 body size
- a larger body size (which is NOT as large as the decades-ago model 190 - slowish - "kaiser" rotors)
I would recommend the 186 body size (which looks like the same size as the .772" bore rotors, but with larger cutouts in the rotor bodies, and larger bore knuckles coming out of the casings. Those rotors are (arguably) faster than 186 rotors, as they have less mass.

I wrote the owner of the 693. Let's see if he's interested in a little negotiation.

I dont love the valves and quality of cerveny from the last 30 years, but they are probably fresher than the ones I have now

According to MTP's website, they replace Chinese made tubas with valves from Otto Beckert in Kirchentellinsfurt from Germany.

I only know about them because they have or had the Tornister tuba, like the one Wessex has but with the made in Germany valves.

MTP says they make their own stuff too tuba. The tuba they makes looks like a Miraphone 191 with a super red brass leadpipe. Links below.

MTP About Us Page
https://www.mtp-music.de/en/wir-uber-uns/

Otto Beckert made in Germany "Titanium" valves
http://www.beckert-feinmechanik.de/

MTP 2910
https://www.mtp-music.de/en/mtp-b-tuba-2910-titan/

And they make their own Euphonium too.
https://www.mtp-music.de/en/mtp-b-eupho ... -firebird/

Edit: I accidentally wrote 1291. The tuba above is a copy of the 191 rotary BBb tuba.

Nice links thank you

I'm sitting here at the moment playing the tuba in question and it's hard to tell how much of the difficulty of playing this horn is the slow and heavy linkage including the Clockwork Springs or it has something to do with the valves it's true that at least two of the valves don't have much compression but when I don't move the valve that much the horn actually feels pretty good. Clockwork Springs being what they are, there's next to no leverage on them and and it doesn't feel Nimble at all

"Stuff" (ie. "you-name-it" issues) is why both Wade and I (when buying something for ourselves, as I've seen Wade is like-minded on this) will drive stupid distances to examine instruments - that we're looking to own - in-person, prior to handing over loot to a seller.

If I'm buying something to flip (candidly) I'm not as picky. If something is as good or better than I expected, bravo.

If something is not as good as I expected (but still better than what I paid for it), that's OK...I'll (simply) sell that thing for less than I had planned (but hopefully, for more than I paid).

I've only asked to return a couple of things (over the years). Otherwise, I just put stuff in good condition and sell it.
Even when somewhat disappointed, it's usually less trouble to just do that than to deal with a return (as well as the shipping cost of a return).

With the model 98, (luckily) it was less than a 9-hour r/t (which included a minor detour to pick up a friend - along with their "ears") on the way, as the seller graciously agreed to drive three hours r/t themselves...and there was a bonus - as someone (who was interested in purchasing a tuba from me) had an errand in that same general area.

I played this horn for about 60 seconds, and yes if you remember for my demo video the valves were sticking and I chalk that up to not having been used very much. It does have nice qualities and I don't feel like overpaid but of course as much of a tinkerer as I am, I'm wondering if I can make it better than it's current condition

I knew the clock Springs might be an issue because the previous owner actually posted a thread on this board asking how to modernize the springs

viewtopic.php?p=62866&hilit#p6286

Mark, my old Alex has those and after having the springs redone, they work just fine. Your mileage may vary.

Maybe ill talk to Dan. He might have some advice in this department

LeMark wrote: ↑Wed Jan 03, 2024 3:56 pm I played this horn for about 60 seconds, and yes if you remember for my demo video the valves were sticking and I chalk that up to not having been used very much. It does have nice qualities and I don't feel like overpaid but of course as much of a tinkerer as I am, I'm wondering if I can make it better than it's current condition

I knew the clock Springs might be an issue because the previous owner actually posted a thread on this board asking how to modernize the springs

viewtopic.php?p=62866&hilit#p6286

The 98 had a few issues (and stuff that I knew I would spend well over a hundred hours re-doing to eliminate unnecessary work, as well as to allow some pitches to be produced in-tune much more easily)...and (same as you portray) I knew what I was getting into.

If I'd had the dough and had decided to buy one of these things "new" (and NO ONE stocks them)...I probably would have driven as far as (ex.) Dillon Music to try out a new one, and to bring it home MYSELF - rather than having some collection of $15 - $25 handlers/drivers thinking of it as "yet another box of $h!t".