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I have to admit that I don't understand the tool and I'm going to have to look back at this thread and study the pictures some more. Thanks for showing it.

Do you have any tips for removing existing rust from tools, like dent balls, etc.?

I don't have a very strong buffing wheel (1/6hp) but I suppose that might work. But larger tools... let's just say, I inherited a lot of stuff that hadn't been used in a long time and was kept in a damp basement.

BRS wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2024 1:32 pm Today, my favorite tool Isn’t a tool. It’s a supply. When I’m done using tools like dent rods, most dent ball, etc. everything gets wiped down, most often with a little Fluid Film on a paper towel. Keeps rust at bay and cleans at the same time. It’s nontoxic and lanolin based.

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I spray this stuff all over the underside of my vehicle each summer. Through Illinois winters, the frame hasn’t gotten all rusty. Great product that I will continue to use.

BRS wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2024 2:03 pm I like Evapo-Rust. I’ve had good luck with it on funky old tools I’ve bought. After the Evapo-Rust, some 0000 steel wool followed by Fluid Film usually works wonders.


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Yup. Warm it and it works even better.

Rick “rust removal by chelation” Denney

Thanks to this thread I got some of the above-mentioned supplies to rehab these old rusty tools that I've been meaning to clean but haven't. Thanks for the inspiration, fellas.

The past few days I did the Evapo-Rust, steel wool, Fluid Film trick on some of my rusty old dent balls, tools, etc. This stuff really works and it's really breathed new life into these things!

That's a really good idea ...but - usually - I just get Chuck Norris to take care of stuff like that.

My favorite tool yesterday was the bottle of Goo Gone that I used to remove packing tape residue that someone taped over a loooong crack in the upper bell section of a newer (90s?) King Cleveland 605 trombone.

That crack puzzles me. Manufacturing defect? The horn is in otherwise great condition, no sign of significant wear or dents or anything, but it seems like the seam from when the bell was first shaped simply failed.

Although I can't exert all of my potential force on them, every once in a while, Mrs. bloke's open hole flute pad grommet tool comes in handy...

It also recently proved useful to remove an oboe reed well (which was loose, but not loose enough to pull out with fingernails).

valve stems:
yeah...when pretty, I'll avoid marking them up, but - if already marked up badly - I just put the pliers to 'em.

valve stems:

So often, it's King valve stems that are are burred up, as so few understand that they are BOTH screwed in AND soldered.