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I was wondering how many tubists over the age of 65 play a full sized tuba vs. a 3/4 ?

I have been advised that this is a bad idea. But I wanted to see what the actual users here have to say. Nothing beats real world experience.

Also, is hitting higher notes a function of tuba size, mouthpiece selection, or embouchure? Certainly all are pertinent but which one do you think is the biggest factor?

I'm 67 and I play everything from a Zo Tiny Dragon to a 5/4 sized Miraphone Hagen.

2bahawk wrote: ↑Fri Mar 29, 2024 11:44 am I was wondering how many tubists over the age of 65 play a full sized tuba vs. a 3/4 ?

Mine is more or less 5/4 size, I'm 69.

Also, is hitting higher notes a function of tuba size, mouthpiece selection, or embouchure?

Don't forget breath. I think of all those things, the size of the tuba would be by far the least important, but that doesn't mean at all that every tuba is the same. Size could be related to some of the factors that make high notes harder or easier, if only we knew what those factors are. Just like age is related to physical condition, but not really predictive - some people are feeble at 60, others hold up pretty well into their 80s, etc.

I don't play on mouthpieces with huge throats.
I don't play on tubas with huge mouthpipes.
At "not far behind donn", I'm not having any trouble with any of my instruments and one of them (size/length/bore) is the largest one that I've ever owned (I sincerely believe, due to the two previously-stated realities).
Mostly a tuba player, (one of my two) euphoniums is the largest one made (yes, with the other being the smallest - a Yamaha 321), and (yup) I'm currently looking to make a mouthpiece for it similar to what I'm using but (yup) with a smaller throat (for the LARGER one).
The huge tuba is in a heavy hard case. Further,it's considerably heavier (in its thin wood case) than my (4-valve) 186 (C) that I carried around in a case when I was 18 - 21 years old.s thick/heavy hard case, it's a bit unwieldy, but it's too expensive and delicate to carry around in a nylon or leather sack with token padding.
With the various pieces of equipment that I own/use, I continue to be hired to play around here. rule: No one gets ALL the gigs. Some are steady/permanent, some gigs are booked by people who play your instrument (thus hiring themselves), and some are given to people as reciprocal favors and to former students...but - outside of that - I'm probably (??) still the (and not that I live near "the world's busiest city for tuba playing" or anything like that...) probably the first person called...ie. "I'm holding up for now."

➜ CONSERVATIVE mouthpiece throat sizes (regardless of the age/health/prowess/robustness-of-health of the player)
➜ CONSERVATIVE capillary portions of instrument mouthpipe tubes (regardless of the age/health/prowess/robustness-of-health of the player)

If "carrying" (vs. "blowing") is the issue, I would suggest a good/used (thin/light) Cerveny full-size four-rotor tuba, rather than a small tuba. If it needs to be carried in a sack, extra care is in order, and some king-size pillows (for vehicle transport).

I think I qualify at 74. And probably having significantly less strength than most men my age.

Make sure of two things: You have the air for it, and you can do whatever lifting you need to be able to do in the situations you play in. For lifting I have a new recent concept that some tubas can easily be rolled across your thigh, and some -- not so much, and then actual lifting comes into play. For that reason I like the tall bell stack tuba shapes better; the center of gravity when sitting on the bell and needing to get into my lap, is important. The higher the COG, the easier the thigh roll is.

I strongly agree with the narrow throat concept. The rim should fit your face, and the throat should fit best use of your air. Cup shape is more than I know enough about to comment.

I am almost 73 and had a bout with Covid in 2021. Although it was a mild case, it apparently reduced my lung capacity. Last year, @Mary Ann graciously sold me a nice Miraphone 1972 model 184 CC (considered a 3/4), and I sold my 4/4 "Miraclone" 186 copy. The 184 plays a little "barky" and requires some calisthenics to play in tune, but it fits my needs perfectly in terms of requiring less air and lighter weight to carry around (I have arthritis all over). The two mouthpieces that fit it best are a PT-65, and my favorite an old Warburton-Oviedo TG 25 that I found on ebay. They have a smaller rim diameter and a slightly smaller throat. My favorite mouthpieces that sounded best with my 4/4 don't sound good on this horn.

As for higher notes, it depends on how high. For me it is all embouchure and faster air flow. In the extreme upper registers I found that instead of blowing "into the throat", I direct my air just barely below that to get somewhat of a "ricochet" effect to speed up the air. At least that's what works for me. I've also found that the upper register is easier with a Helleberg-type cup rather than a round cup. The round cup gets a fatter sound but makes the high notes more difficult. Just my two cents.

Interesting that the PT65 works for you. I always used a PT64 on that tuba, and its 184CC predecessor.

A great horn for a person who wants something easy to manage physically but yet produces a full tone is the Packer 379b. I owned one for years as a teaching tuba until I decided I wanted to go a a little larger with the Eastman 534, which is also a compact tuba

hello,

I am 68, when I play (not often anymore) I still use my Alexander 163 CC with a Bach 7 mouthpiece. I have played this tuba since 1975 and have always considered this model to be a 4/4.

In my experience, high notes (and all registers) are more of a function of practice once you find a tuba and mouthpiece that works for you.

best,
Mark

I know at least a half dozen tuba players over 65 and all of them play 5/4 or 6/4 tubas.

My main axe is a 6/4 Yamaha CC. My 'small' horn is a Wessex Chicago Presence. My F is a Norm Pearson model MW F.

In my opinion it depends on the player (health, fitness, experience) and what playing one does (band, orchestra, small ensembles, jazz, etc).

Not all 4/4 are the same size and playing characteristics. You will need to find what fits you and your playing situation, but I do not think a 4/4 should be crossed off a list just because it is a 4/4.

For me - main horn is a 4/4+ CC. I also have smaller e-flat (15-inch bell) and a smaller F-tuba. I could see the smaller horns becoming main horns if carrying around a CC gets too heavy and my playing situations change. Or maybe I would find a smaller C. I do not have a B-flat, but a couple posters gave some B-flat recommendations and those look like good considerations on your journey.

Mouthpieces, again personal choice and depends on the player, tuba, and playing situations. For me, nothing big, PT-36 or Tilz M-1 and very rare PT-88 on CC, PT-64 on F, and Wick 4 or 5 small shank on e-flat. After, 34-years, I have found nothing works for 'me' aside from smaller WIcks on my e-flat. The Wick scenario is an example of the right personal mouthpiece and tuba combination in my case.

I am not a fan of hard cases even with wheels. I like Cronkhite leather for my CC and cordura for my other tubas.

Enjoy the journey of finding "your" horn.