Trombonist switching to Tuba

[Hobart]

Alright, so I've been playing trombone for a while. I actually hail from trombonechat, and figured this wouldn't be a bad place to ask more tuba-related questions.

My college concert band does not have a tubist, and I'm tempted to switch to it because I'm playing the tuba parts anyways on a bass trombone. They might provide me a sousaphone, but I might be on the hunt for a horn of my own as well.

In terms of playing, what would you guys recommend I do after switching? I hear it's pretty much a large baritone, and I picked up a tuba a couple of times, but I'm curious if there's anything really obvious I don't know about.

I'm also curious about equipment; I've seen a few Olds tubas go for less than $500, made in Fullerton. Are these any good to start on or should these be avoided, for someone getting new equipment?

[Ace]

I think I have read that Olds instruments produced in Fullerton CA were generally pretty good just as were those manufactured in their Los Angeles factory before the move to Fullerton. However, I am lacking in personal exposure to the Olds tubas. Others will have to chime in on that subject. Also, I seem to remember something about tooling for Olds tubas is similar or the same as that used in the production of some Reynolds and Bach tubas. There are a few people on this board that have vast knowledge of things like this.

Ace

[grayax]

Years ago, I was asked to move from euphonium (which I only played for a year agter being asked to move to it after five years as a trumpet player) to tuba. I can say that a tuba is not just a large baritone (I also play bass trombone). What is expected as a tuba (bass line, foundation, whatever you want to call it) is different than the melody/counter melody/"I don't know what to do with it" parts you get on euphonium. Even when I play tuba parts on my euphonium (a King 2280), it's more akin to playing bass trombone.

As for equipment, I have no experience with Olds tubas, but I have heard good things about them. I own a beat up King 1241 that sounds decent for the amount of abuse it took before I got it. If you only need three valves King 1240 is another option. 1240s come up on eBay pretty often and aren't all that expensive. 1241s (4 valves) are usually more expensive. Most 1240/41s you find have detachable recording bells (mine does), but I have found that the sound isn't as awful as advertised by some.

I have had a lot of fun playing tuba. It takes a bit of time making the physical adjustments to sound decent and a bit of time to make the mental adjustments to play the parts like a tuba player, but don't let that stop you. Put in the practice and have fun. I'm sure you will be glad you did.

[JESimmons]

I played bass trombone for many years before adding tuba. I found the transition fairly easy to get to a minimally acceptable level of playing. After a year and reading Arnold Jacobs’ book, I realized you blow a tuba differently than a trombone. I can’t really describe it, but had to work it out.

I have a Conn 10J I’d sell rather cheaply, but shipping tubas can be a problem. Where in the world are you?

[MN_TimTuba]

Alright, so I've been playing trombone for a while. I actually hail from trombonechat, and figured this wouldn't be a bad place to ask more tuba-related questions.

My college concert band does not have a tubist, and I'm tempted to switch to it because I'm playing the tuba parts anyways on a bass trombone. They might provide me a sousaphone, but I might be on the hunt for a horn of my own as well.

In terms of playing, what would you guys recommend I do after switching? I hear it's pretty much a large baritone, and I picked up a tuba a couple of times, but I'm curious if there's anything really obvious I don't know about.

I'm also curious about equipment; I've seen a few Olds tubas go for less than $500, made in Fullerton. Are these any good to start on or should these be avoided, for someone getting new equipment?

Hobart,
Not sure where you're located, but here's an Olds O-99 available on Craig's List - https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/msg ... 49849.html
These are nice tubas, others here can guide you on the price.
Good luck on your search and your switch!
Tim

[iiipopes]

Big, easy, controlled air. You have to stay a little more on top of the beat with the bass drum and the director's stick because of the greater inertia of tone production of the lower register. Start with something like a Bach 25 or 22 mouthpiece to get used to the larger diameter, and if desired, work your way to a larger mouthpiece from there. Drop your jaw. An open relaxed oral cavity with a low back of the tongue is important to keep the low register centered and from going thin and sharp. It is even more important to use the diaphragm and intercostal muscles to control the breath. Make a conscious effort to relax while playing.

[donn]

That one in Portland is a good deal - not a steal, but an unusually cleaned up example from an established seller. My first tuba was a much more battered O-99, fun and useful tuba. I'd say if you can get an under-$500 price, it may be worth that even if it's unplayable, if the repairs aren't going to depend on hard-to-find parts.

After repair of the mashed leadpipe and perhaps a little valve alignment, it played a whole lot better. That's something to look for in beater tubas - little dents in the small tubing and particularly the first section after the mouthpiece are more important than huge fist size dents in the big tubing or the bell. Mine had a wobbly 3rd valve stem - original broken off, and a substitute had been attached in some way or other. It isn't the only one I've seen with one or more broken valve stems - the pistons themselves seem to be quite durable, the stems not so much.

(A tuba's "leadpipe" is the whole section of tubing in front of the valves; the sleeve at the end is "receiver", bored to accept a hopefully standard mouthpiece shank - a few tubas still exist with smaller trombone sized receivers, and some usually more expensive tubas with slightly oversized receivers.)