Making Your Own Tools
- the elephant
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Making Your Own Tools
One of the first things I learned in my apprenticeship was that sometimes you have to make tools to get a job done. I enjoy doing this sort of stuff, and it has paid off in my automotive pursuits over the years. Need a problem solved? Make your own solution. Joe recently went off about helpless people. This is sort of along the same vein of thought: do it yourself. When you are working on a horn and you think, "You know, if I just had something to do such-and-such, this job would be much easier." Well, you are correct, and in many cases, the need is so specific that there is no such tool. So why not try to MAKE something that does what you need?
A man who barely knows of my existence but who was a tremendous influence on me as a repairman and a musician is Eric Swanson (who is the bass trombonist with the wonderful Dallas Opera Orchestra and who runs a great shop out of his garage in Fort Worth).
I once brought him a Yamaha euph with a jammed piston. It was the one with the bottom of the case that was blocked by some valve tubing. He looked it over and determined that it was likely jammed up due to being dirty. (This ended up being correct. The friend who loaned it to me had purchased it used and had never had it chem-cleaned.) The issue was that there was no way to gently tap the piston out of the casing from below, and pulling it out could cause more damage if something else was causing it to stick. He said to me, "I am sick of this problem coming across my bench and each time having to reinvent the wheel to solve it. Let me make a tool to do this." I agreed, but my destitute student self was worrying about dollar signs clicking past while Eric worked on the horn.
He chatted with me as he cut off a short length of broom handle (his wife caught him doing this and expressed her displeasure heh, heh…) and he drilled a 45º hole, cut a dowel, and glued it into the hole. This went on for a little while. Finally, he sat at his bench with the tool and the euph, and said, "Just a reminder: I charge by the hour." Then he slapped a timer, put the tool in place, tapped it once, caught the piston as it fell free, slapped the timer again, and stated "TEN BUCKS!" with a big smile on his face.
HAHAHA!!!
Anyway, one of the first sets of tools that I made that were good enough to keep and use for many years was my set of violin soundpost setters. I had only ever seen someone use them, but not had a chance to look at the tools themselves. Once I knew what I had to do, making a set from an old coat hanger was pretty simple, and what I ended up with is remarkably close to the actual tools. (Necessity can be a real mother, to paraphrase…)
These two bits of coat hanger wire have made me thousands of dollars over the last 25 years…
Right now I am building a jig to center drill long, thin rods to tap and then install threaded couplers.
I am sick of my wobbly drill press. I am currently hunting down the specific one I want (which is, of course: old, no longer made, bombproof, with bearings and such that are still available, fully rebuildable, "American Iron" to replace an inaccurately made, uncorrectable pile of off-shore junk). I have been doing my research and my due diligence on the phone and may have located one that ticks two of the three boxes of searching for vintage tools:
• good quality
• good price
• good location
In this case, the price and condition balance each other out and are very good, but the location is about a six-hour drive from my location, and that sucks. However, the quality and condition of what I am picking up make up for the combined cost of the item and the cost of the trip, so all I really am out is a lot of time. Whatever. It may already have been sold. I am awaiting a response from the seller, and it is the holidays, so he may not even be in the US right now. We shall see. My fingers are crossed.
So, back to my idea of a dedicated end-drilling jig…
I have been farting around with old US-made Jacobs drill chucks, as they are about as accurate as you can get in my price range. I own five of them. My Delta bench motor came with one on it. I replaced the horrid abortion of a chuck on my Ryobi drill press with another that I got from eBay and cleaned up. I have a few more of various sizes and tapers.
One of these is a really nice Jacobs #7B. I am hoping to make a sort of upright lathe tailstock for the drill press I hope to soon own. I know a lot of "old man" tricks to use an accurate drill press as a sort of lathe, and I plan to make a tool specific to my needs to use these tricks. (Yeah, I am getting a lathe, but I first have to find a place to set it up that is cat-safe. That is a "must" item.) This upright tailstock would hold the cutting bits, and the drill press would spin the rod to be drilled out.
In my search for parts for this upright tailstock, I have been buying up small Jacobs Chucks, which are usually very inexpensive. I just picked up a #0, which is tiny. The barrel is not much bigger around than my thumb. It is listed in old catalogs as being for a hand drill, but I have never seen this small of a chuck on anything. It is very cool and it works pretty well. I have to punch it apart so I can clean and service it. I see no indications of it being damaged, and it was made at the Hartford, Connecticut factory (probably in the 1960s), so it is just about bombproof.
SIDEBAR RANT: The current China-made Jacobs Chucks (available at Harbor Freight) are made from very soft steel and can no longer tolerate being disassembled according to the company's instructions — they quickly become malformed, so to service one is to ruin it. They are pretty much expensive, disposable chucks. Normal use wears them out, and they can't be repaired.
Here is the little #0 chuck. As far as drill chucks go, it's a pretty cute, little fellow. I hope to use it in another project like the upright tailstock. What do you think I should use it for? (Keep it clean, you weirdos…)
JACOBS CHUCK
That is my pinky at the bottom…
I was pleased that, as old as this is, the jaws do not need to be replaced.
HARTFORD, CONN.
U.S. OF AMERICA
AirPods for size reference…
A man who barely knows of my existence but who was a tremendous influence on me as a repairman and a musician is Eric Swanson (who is the bass trombonist with the wonderful Dallas Opera Orchestra and who runs a great shop out of his garage in Fort Worth).
I once brought him a Yamaha euph with a jammed piston. It was the one with the bottom of the case that was blocked by some valve tubing. He looked it over and determined that it was likely jammed up due to being dirty. (This ended up being correct. The friend who loaned it to me had purchased it used and had never had it chem-cleaned.) The issue was that there was no way to gently tap the piston out of the casing from below, and pulling it out could cause more damage if something else was causing it to stick. He said to me, "I am sick of this problem coming across my bench and each time having to reinvent the wheel to solve it. Let me make a tool to do this." I agreed, but my destitute student self was worrying about dollar signs clicking past while Eric worked on the horn.
He chatted with me as he cut off a short length of broom handle (his wife caught him doing this and expressed her displeasure heh, heh…) and he drilled a 45º hole, cut a dowel, and glued it into the hole. This went on for a little while. Finally, he sat at his bench with the tool and the euph, and said, "Just a reminder: I charge by the hour." Then he slapped a timer, put the tool in place, tapped it once, caught the piston as it fell free, slapped the timer again, and stated "TEN BUCKS!" with a big smile on his face.
HAHAHA!!!
Anyway, one of the first sets of tools that I made that were good enough to keep and use for many years was my set of violin soundpost setters. I had only ever seen someone use them, but not had a chance to look at the tools themselves. Once I knew what I had to do, making a set from an old coat hanger was pretty simple, and what I ended up with is remarkably close to the actual tools. (Necessity can be a real mother, to paraphrase…)
These two bits of coat hanger wire have made me thousands of dollars over the last 25 years…
Right now I am building a jig to center drill long, thin rods to tap and then install threaded couplers.
I am sick of my wobbly drill press. I am currently hunting down the specific one I want (which is, of course: old, no longer made, bombproof, with bearings and such that are still available, fully rebuildable, "American Iron" to replace an inaccurately made, uncorrectable pile of off-shore junk). I have been doing my research and my due diligence on the phone and may have located one that ticks two of the three boxes of searching for vintage tools:
• good quality
• good price
• good location
In this case, the price and condition balance each other out and are very good, but the location is about a six-hour drive from my location, and that sucks. However, the quality and condition of what I am picking up make up for the combined cost of the item and the cost of the trip, so all I really am out is a lot of time. Whatever. It may already have been sold. I am awaiting a response from the seller, and it is the holidays, so he may not even be in the US right now. We shall see. My fingers are crossed.
So, back to my idea of a dedicated end-drilling jig…
I have been farting around with old US-made Jacobs drill chucks, as they are about as accurate as you can get in my price range. I own five of them. My Delta bench motor came with one on it. I replaced the horrid abortion of a chuck on my Ryobi drill press with another that I got from eBay and cleaned up. I have a few more of various sizes and tapers.
One of these is a really nice Jacobs #7B. I am hoping to make a sort of upright lathe tailstock for the drill press I hope to soon own. I know a lot of "old man" tricks to use an accurate drill press as a sort of lathe, and I plan to make a tool specific to my needs to use these tricks. (Yeah, I am getting a lathe, but I first have to find a place to set it up that is cat-safe. That is a "must" item.) This upright tailstock would hold the cutting bits, and the drill press would spin the rod to be drilled out.
In my search for parts for this upright tailstock, I have been buying up small Jacobs Chucks, which are usually very inexpensive. I just picked up a #0, which is tiny. The barrel is not much bigger around than my thumb. It is listed in old catalogs as being for a hand drill, but I have never seen this small of a chuck on anything. It is very cool and it works pretty well. I have to punch it apart so I can clean and service it. I see no indications of it being damaged, and it was made at the Hartford, Connecticut factory (probably in the 1960s), so it is just about bombproof.
SIDEBAR RANT: The current China-made Jacobs Chucks (available at Harbor Freight) are made from very soft steel and can no longer tolerate being disassembled according to the company's instructions — they quickly become malformed, so to service one is to ruin it. They are pretty much expensive, disposable chucks. Normal use wears them out, and they can't be repaired.
Here is the little #0 chuck. As far as drill chucks go, it's a pretty cute, little fellow. I hope to use it in another project like the upright tailstock. What do you think I should use it for? (Keep it clean, you weirdos…)
JACOBS CHUCK
That is my pinky at the bottom…
I was pleased that, as old as this is, the jaws do not need to be replaced.
HARTFORD, CONN.
U.S. OF AMERICA
AirPods for size reference…
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- bloke (Sat Dec 31, 2022 11:09 am)
- the elephant
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Re: Making Your Own Tools
So PLEASE post photos of tools you have made, even if they are *very* crude or simple. A photo of your solution may help others figure their way out of their own problems.
- bloke
- Mid South Music
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Re: Making Your Own Tools
Mrs. bloke ended up making sound post setters over-and-over (back during pre-post-civilization brick-and-mortar days - when we rented more fiddles than clarinets), because they (homemade sound post setters) would end up under-and-behind things (such as saxophone cases, etc.) I believe we also have a couple of those fancy "real" ones...I don't know how we ended up with them, because we never bought any.
I've seen sound posts inside fiddles with monofilament tied to them and (obviously) with the end cut off (wtf? - Whatever that "method" was, it sure seems like a really hard way to git-r-dun).
I still stop at pawn shops, but I look just as much through the tools (to see if there's something in great shape - made back in the 1950's or 1960's) that I can use. One time, I bought (simply) a B.A.R. (yes a bar, but a Big Ass Rod). I believe it's a railroad tool - used in the past to coax rail into position prior to spiking it down. (It isn't this fancy on the end, but tough/thick/long like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/285047742557 ) So far, nothing has warped it, and it has (again) coaxed quite a few things since I bought it. The guy insisted on $25...I paid it. I also pick up chunks of metal off (laying in the curbs - often, in Memphis) that may have fallen off work trucks...The last two things I picked up were a two-foot piece of sturdy (hollow) 2"x2" square stock, and a same-length/same-type piece of 4"x4"...I also pick up large bolts/washers/nuts... I regularly use a particularly sturdy gutter-retrieved 3" pipe to break the blade nuts loose on the big John Deere Z-Trak (' lots of torque continuously tightening those nuts after cutting too-tall turf - and cutting a few things a mower shouldn't be asked to cut - on too-many-acres too-many-times). I just paid my son (cold/miserable day) to change the oil on my Toyota (car). He was having trouble busting the drain plug/bolt loose...so I told him where "the pipe" is, and how to use it on the ratchet. Yeah...I have a breaker bar, but (remember? LAZY) it's in the back o' the tool cabinet...and I'd have to pull out my 1/2" drive sockets.
Treated 4x4 posts and treated 2x4's aren't technically "tools" (as technically are not metal scraps/nuts/bolts/washers), but they are "UTILIZED" to build fences and outbuildings. I keep a sharp eye out for PRE-2004 (when the gubment made treated lumber illegal, and - now - all we can buy is "pretend" treated lumber) posts and 2x4's and (yes) BUY them - if they're not tossed out by the road. Those (even though old/worn-looking NOW) will continue to last, and should last past my own demise, whereas - when I build stuff out of "fake-treated" lumber, I have to build AS IF (ref: the days PRIOR TO there being treated lumber) it is not treated at all. That having been said...(due to the triple-2020-cost of fake-treated lumber) I DO ALSO pick up fake-treated lumber off the curb, but will not pay money for it.
bloke "Per typical - being a typist - I typed too much crap...It's time to fix some tubas and make some money. Mrs. bloke is certainly spending it. "
I've seen sound posts inside fiddles with monofilament tied to them and (obviously) with the end cut off (wtf? - Whatever that "method" was, it sure seems like a really hard way to git-r-dun).
I still stop at pawn shops, but I look just as much through the tools (to see if there's something in great shape - made back in the 1950's or 1960's) that I can use. One time, I bought (simply) a B.A.R. (yes a bar, but a Big Ass Rod). I believe it's a railroad tool - used in the past to coax rail into position prior to spiking it down. (It isn't this fancy on the end, but tough/thick/long like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/285047742557 ) So far, nothing has warped it, and it has (again) coaxed quite a few things since I bought it. The guy insisted on $25...I paid it. I also pick up chunks of metal off (laying in the curbs - often, in Memphis) that may have fallen off work trucks...The last two things I picked up were a two-foot piece of sturdy (hollow) 2"x2" square stock, and a same-length/same-type piece of 4"x4"...I also pick up large bolts/washers/nuts... I regularly use a particularly sturdy gutter-retrieved 3" pipe to break the blade nuts loose on the big John Deere Z-Trak (' lots of torque continuously tightening those nuts after cutting too-tall turf - and cutting a few things a mower shouldn't be asked to cut - on too-many-acres too-many-times). I just paid my son (cold/miserable day) to change the oil on my Toyota (car). He was having trouble busting the drain plug/bolt loose...so I told him where "the pipe" is, and how to use it on the ratchet. Yeah...I have a breaker bar, but (remember? LAZY) it's in the back o' the tool cabinet...and I'd have to pull out my 1/2" drive sockets.
Treated 4x4 posts and treated 2x4's aren't technically "tools" (as technically are not metal scraps/nuts/bolts/washers), but they are "UTILIZED" to build fences and outbuildings. I keep a sharp eye out for PRE-2004 (when the gubment made treated lumber illegal, and - now - all we can buy is "pretend" treated lumber) posts and 2x4's and (yes) BUY them - if they're not tossed out by the road. Those (even though old/worn-looking NOW) will continue to last, and should last past my own demise, whereas - when I build stuff out of "fake-treated" lumber, I have to build AS IF (ref: the days PRIOR TO there being treated lumber) it is not treated at all. That having been said...(due to the triple-2020-cost of fake-treated lumber) I DO ALSO pick up fake-treated lumber off the curb, but will not pay money for it.
bloke "Per typical - being a typist - I typed too much crap...It's time to fix some tubas and make some money. Mrs. bloke is certainly spending it. "
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- the elephant (Sat Dec 31, 2022 1:24 pm)
- bloke
- Mid South Music
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Re: Making Your Own Tools
re: plumbing/"helpless" thread:
I finally admitted to myself that I actually DO enough plumbing to justify a pair of those "snips" - which CUT plastic pipe, rather than sawing it.
Sawing it is only slightly annoying, but - if a sawed end heads on to a filtered or "washerless" faucet outlet - one must really take care to make certain that all of the plastic crumbs have been removed from the pipe interior.
I have a "roman" tub faucet (bought the replacement faucet and hardware (sold separately for this type of faucet) at bargain prices on eBay, but keep putting off installing it). I've even freed (cut the silicone and removed it) the marble panel (in the shower stall) that needed to be removed to access the plumbing. The snips are going to make this job MUCH easier (I've decided to install PVC cutoffs just below both the hot and cold valves - just as sink faucets always feature cutoffs below sinks), and the snips will completely eliminate any chance of plastic crumbs falling down in the remaining pipe stubs and jamming up the perfect-new Delta washerless valves.
(With a well, washerless valves get crapped up after fifteen years or so. It's just fine to " play games" - soak the valves in SlimeAway, replace their O-rings, etc. - but there's no good way to soak the washerless valves' CASINGS in SlimeAway...PLUS - after that many years - the faucets are no longer in style...so it's just easier - and foolproof - to toss and replace everything. ex: When this house was built, "gold" faucets - ie. titanium-coated stainless steel - were all the rage, so...)
If we EVER end up having a sort-of dry spring season (as I wouldn't be interested in renting a trenching machine and digging a 300' "mud trench"), I plan to install an (as used with in-ground swimming pools) underground diverter valve - so the smaller pond can be topped of (during severe draughts - to prevent fish from dying) just as can the larger pond...and without rigging up vinyl fire hose over to the smaller pond. I've salvaged enough (albeit pretty large - 1-1/2") plastic pipe to make the run (underground) over to the small pond, but - even though plastic crumbs wouldn't hurt anything in this application - those snips are really going to make that job much nicer - as (being salvaged) I have to cut funky previous-application fittings off of all of that salvaged PVC pipe...
============================================
Having ponds dug, building outbuildings, running pipe/wiring, fencing in pastures, etc., etc... is "cool" to visitors, but (whew) all of that stuff (once constructed) simply defines "more stuff to maintain/repair". Even our huge-for-the-city-but-small-for-out-in-the-country garden: Guess what? We had to watch craigslist and fb to buy some cheap-affordable/used FREEZERS.
them: "We saved up and went on a cruise through the Bahamas."
blokes: "We saved up, and bought fence posts and rolls of goat fence." (That being the case, we still HAVE something - arguably worth more than the cost of the materials, after having bought those materials.)
I finally admitted to myself that I actually DO enough plumbing to justify a pair of those "snips" - which CUT plastic pipe, rather than sawing it.
Sawing it is only slightly annoying, but - if a sawed end heads on to a filtered or "washerless" faucet outlet - one must really take care to make certain that all of the plastic crumbs have been removed from the pipe interior.
I have a "roman" tub faucet (bought the replacement faucet and hardware (sold separately for this type of faucet) at bargain prices on eBay, but keep putting off installing it). I've even freed (cut the silicone and removed it) the marble panel (in the shower stall) that needed to be removed to access the plumbing. The snips are going to make this job MUCH easier (I've decided to install PVC cutoffs just below both the hot and cold valves - just as sink faucets always feature cutoffs below sinks), and the snips will completely eliminate any chance of plastic crumbs falling down in the remaining pipe stubs and jamming up the perfect-new Delta washerless valves.
(With a well, washerless valves get crapped up after fifteen years or so. It's just fine to " play games" - soak the valves in SlimeAway, replace their O-rings, etc. - but there's no good way to soak the washerless valves' CASINGS in SlimeAway...PLUS - after that many years - the faucets are no longer in style...so it's just easier - and foolproof - to toss and replace everything. ex: When this house was built, "gold" faucets - ie. titanium-coated stainless steel - were all the rage, so...)
If we EVER end up having a sort-of dry spring season (as I wouldn't be interested in renting a trenching machine and digging a 300' "mud trench"), I plan to install an (as used with in-ground swimming pools) underground diverter valve - so the smaller pond can be topped of (during severe draughts - to prevent fish from dying) just as can the larger pond...and without rigging up vinyl fire hose over to the smaller pond. I've salvaged enough (albeit pretty large - 1-1/2") plastic pipe to make the run (underground) over to the small pond, but - even though plastic crumbs wouldn't hurt anything in this application - those snips are really going to make that job much nicer - as (being salvaged) I have to cut funky previous-application fittings off of all of that salvaged PVC pipe...
============================================
Having ponds dug, building outbuildings, running pipe/wiring, fencing in pastures, etc., etc... is "cool" to visitors, but (whew) all of that stuff (once constructed) simply defines "more stuff to maintain/repair". Even our huge-for-the-city-but-small-for-out-in-the-country garden: Guess what? We had to watch craigslist and fb to buy some cheap-affordable/used FREEZERS.
them: "We saved up and went on a cruise through the Bahamas."
blokes: "We saved up, and bought fence posts and rolls of goat fence." (That being the case, we still HAVE something - arguably worth more than the cost of the materials, after having bought those materials.)
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- the elephant (Sat Dec 31, 2022 5:27 pm)
Re: Making Your Own Tools
My daughter's Yamaha school tuba was leaking where the mouth pipe attached. I made this to get the nut off for reinstallation with teflon tape:
Homemade knurling tool. I bought the wheels and made the rest. A 4 jaw chuck was used to cut the curves:
One day I bought a big handful of carbide scrap from Wholesale Tool. I made a homemade handle for scraping grout:
Homemade boring bar. Somewhere I have a bigger one. These are easy to make:
Inspection mirror for trumpet valve alignment:
Jig for soldering Olds trumpet valve upper part to piston:
I needed a longer shaft on this steel brush:
Homemade lathe cut-off tool:
I needed to clean some threads on something I can't remember now:
Various things. At the top is a trumpet/cornet mandrel made by extending an ebay ring mandrel. It's the perfect size:
Motorcycle crank case separation tool:
Various dent tools:
Homemade knurling tool. I bought the wheels and made the rest. A 4 jaw chuck was used to cut the curves:
One day I bought a big handful of carbide scrap from Wholesale Tool. I made a homemade handle for scraping grout:
Homemade boring bar. Somewhere I have a bigger one. These are easy to make:
Inspection mirror for trumpet valve alignment:
Jig for soldering Olds trumpet valve upper part to piston:
I needed a longer shaft on this steel brush:
Homemade lathe cut-off tool:
I needed to clean some threads on something I can't remember now:
Various things. At the top is a trumpet/cornet mandrel made by extending an ebay ring mandrel. It's the perfect size:
Motorcycle crank case separation tool:
Various dent tools:
- These users thanked the author Beyond16 for the post (total 5):
- the elephant (Fri Feb 03, 2023 9:53 am) • UncleBeer (Fri Feb 03, 2023 9:59 am) • York-aholic (Fri Feb 03, 2023 10:01 am) • bloke (Fri Feb 03, 2023 6:54 pm) • Bessonguy (Mon Feb 20, 2023 3:32 am)
- the elephant
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Re: Making Your Own Tools
I see a tool made from rebar. You win, even though this is not a contest. HAHAHA!!!
This is great stuff!
This is great stuff!
Re: Making Your Own Tools
Last time I priced it, Yamaha wanted $170 for their special tool to unscrew their leadpipes. Nice going!
- bloke
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Re: Making Your Own Tools
What do they send for some kind of high price like that...grocery store pliers and a rag?
I recognize that little bent over small gauge steel tool with a polished curve on the end. Around here we call that "the tool that works", because it can actually reach some trumpet slide bow dents that nothing else can reach.
Re: Making Your Own Tools
I have been collecting scrap metal for years. When I die, whoever has to clean out my garage is going to wonder about me. I still have some stainless steel tubing scrap from a 1977 valve assembly summer job. The rebar is from work at a dirt bike track in the late 1980's. I have a giant hexagon aluminum bar that must weigh 50 lb. I bought it from a recycler near my house in the 1990's. I got a chunk of titanium from the same place because everyone should have a chunk of titanium on hand. Other scrap came from a place called Triple-S steel, back when they had a scrap yard customers could dig through. Declining vision is probably the biggest reason I don't play in the garage more. I used to wonder why people bought dial and digital calipers when a simple vernier caliper does the same job. Now I know.the elephant wrote: ↑Fri Feb 03, 2023 9:56 am I see a tool made from rebar. You win, even though this is not a contest. HAHAHA!!!
This is great stuff!
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- York-aholic (Sun Feb 05, 2023 9:08 am) • the elephant (Sun Feb 05, 2023 10:25 am)
- the elephant
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- bloke
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Re: Making Your Own Tools
I keep some Cerrobend - for those times that I need to bend something that doesn't come filled with lead or pitch.
Not EVERY bend job involves an Allied tuba mouthpipe tube.
...but [insert off-topic bassebaw-buzzuh here] that ain't no "tool that I made".
Not EVERY bend job involves an Allied tuba mouthpipe tube.
...but [insert off-topic bassebaw-buzzuh here] that ain't no "tool that I made".
- the elephant
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Re: Making Your Own Tools
I love Cerrobend. Unlike lead, it does not shrink when it cools. It actually expands a tiny bit, so the fit stays very good once it has cooled. It doesn't take a ton of heat to get it out. It comes out cleanly. But the cooling in an ice-water bath is a bit weird. And that crap is more toxic than lead, so you have to be *careful* (as in not a freaking idiot) when you use it.
Re: Making Your Own Tools
My daughter is playing clarinet and I am trying to learn to do some basic repairs. I couldn't find a place to buy the long screwdrivers I wanted so DIY it is:
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- the elephant (Sat May 06, 2023 8:30 pm)