Y'all need to clamp these to your mouthpipes, just before they feed into the valve block....
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- bloke
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Re: Y'all need to clamp these to your mouthpipes, just before they feed into the valve block....
I'll trade you two LeFreques for a Woodify and a gadget to be named later.
The artist formerly known as Snorlax.
Shires Q41 and Yamaha 321 Euphoniums.
Yamaha 621 Baritone, Conn 50H trombone.
Shires Q41 and Yamaha 321 Euphoniums.
Yamaha 621 Baritone, Conn 50H trombone.
- iiipopes
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Re: Y'all need to clamp these to your mouthpipes, just before they feed into the valve block....
King and Reynolds underslung cornets had a small patch that was on the leadpipe knuckle going into the block. It was ostensibly a reinforcement against dings. But it did have a stabilizing effect. When I need that due to a bad anti-node, I use a small strip of golfer's lead tape. Unobtrusive, gets the job done, and removable.
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"Real" Conn 36K - JK 4B Classic
"Real" Conn 36K - JK 4B Classic
- windshieldbug
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Re: Y'all need to clamp these to your mouthpipes, just before they feed into the valve block....
A small hose clamp will be just as effective and cost you 1/100 of the price…
If it’s tourist season, why can’t we shoot them?
- bloke
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Re: Y'all need to clamp these to your mouthpipes, just before they feed into the valve block....
I use an imaginary one, and it costs infinitely less.windshieldbug wrote: ↑Wed Mar 20, 2024 9:29 pm A small hose clamp will be just as effective and cost you 1/100 of the price…
Re: Y'all need to clamp these to your mouthpipes, just before they feed into the valve block....
The wooden finger / knuckle rests you´ll find scrolling further down make A LOT more sense to me.
I´m using something to that effect on my Willson and am in preparation for another one on the Adams.
I might add: Figuring out the shape that will suit YOU and then carving a NICE piece of wood to make it happen contributes to all the fun.
Mine is made of snake wood https://www.feinesholz.de/de/neuigkeite ... ffen-.html
(The WOOD, in contrast to the OIL, is actually something to take seriously )
I´m using something to that effect on my Willson and am in preparation for another one on the Adams.
I might add: Figuring out the shape that will suit YOU and then carving a NICE piece of wood to make it happen contributes to all the fun.
Mine is made of snake wood https://www.feinesholz.de/de/neuigkeite ... ffen-.html
(The WOOD, in contrast to the OIL, is actually something to take seriously )
Re: Y'all need to clamp these to your mouthpipes, just before they feed into the valve block....
Whenever anyone came to the Thein shop with instrument problems (response, intonation, whatever...), they'd solder on a bit of brass in a 'crucial location' and charge 350 Euros.
- bloke
- Mid South Music
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- bloke
- Mid South Music
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- Location: western Tennessee - near Memphis
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Re: Y'all need to clamp these to your mouthpipes, just before they feed into the valve block....
If I partially drilled into a brass mouthpiece on the outside a whole bunch of places and soldered on and send out pieces of 1/8 inch cylindrical brass rod out in all directions - and even back towards my own head (except to curve around to avoid hitting my head), not only would it "project the sound" but it would also protect the mouthpiece from getting dinged up - when it falls on the concrete at a football game.
- Mary Ann
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Re: Y'all need to clamp these to your mouthpipes, just before they feed into the valve block....
And it would LOOK cool, too, if they didn't cart you off to the funny farm. Eight pieces and you could call it the Spider Cup.
Tom Greer made horn mouthpieces for a while that were ribbed on the outside. He tried to sell me one once, and while I didn't laugh in his face I said no thanks. He made good pieces, but that was nuts.
Tom Greer made horn mouthpieces for a while that were ribbed on the outside. He tried to sell me one once, and while I didn't laugh in his face I said no thanks. He made good pieces, but that was nuts.